May 08, 2008

Syracuse is Sparky Town

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The magical thing about a flame is that when you light another match or candle to share the fire, it doesn't diminish the original light.  All that is diminished is the darkness.  And so it is at the corner of Catherine Street and Burnet Avenue since Sparky Town opened a few months ago. 

Sparky Town has quickly become the "funky place to meet and eat" that owner and chef Linda "Sparky" Mortimer has envisioned for her restaurant and cafe.  Every time I've stopped in, whether it was for lunch, a cup of coffee, or dessert to go, I've run into friends and colleagues.  Sparky Town isn't just a neighborhood cafe for Hawley Green but it feels like the neighborhood place for everyone regardless of where they live.

P3140072_2 That must have a lot to do with Sparky herself.  She has a way of making you feel as if you're a dear friend being welcomed home even if it's your first time through the door.  In between taking orders, cooking and tending to the business of running a restaurant Sparky manages to stop at each table to check in on folks and to get to know her guests.  You can probably chalk that up to her naturally outgoing personality, but Sparky's experience catering and teaching cooking classes at Williams Sonoma might also explain how she can turn out great food while making you feel as if dining there is the most exciting thing that could be happening to you.

Continue reading "Syracuse is Sparky Town" »

January 25, 2007

The State of the Union is Delicious!

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I don't care what Frank Bruni says--the venerable Union Square Cafe in New York City has still got it.  I've been in love with USC for ten years now (along with harboring a bit of a crush on owner, Danny Meyer).  True, it had been awhile since I'd last eaten there--around 2002--but I couldn't imagine a better place to go for a special occasion.  So when my Mom's (major) birthday was coming, I made a reservation and eagerly awaited the day when I could get back there.

But the very day before we were to dine there the January 10 edition of the food section harbored tons of praise on Danny Meyer's  Eleven Madison Park while relegating USC and Gramercy Tavern to near has been status as nice, respectable places to dine but not to be wowed.  And I may have detected just a little bit of snark, but I''m protective of USC.  Well I'll tell you, when we arrived for dinner the next night we enjoyed a meal and table service that was simply one of the finest I've experienced. 

And I'm not just saying that because of the extra special birthday touches my mother received with her meal.  And it wasn't just the gratutitous platter of creamy polenta with marscapone (topped with gorgonzola dulce and toasted walnuts) that our server brought us probably after overhearing how much I cook it at home.  Nor was it the gift plate of banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream.  No, it was just that the food was  beautifully and deliciously executed and we were made to feel as if we were the most important people in New York City. 

I'm not saying that Eleven Madison Park isn't spectacular--I've not been there in years.  But it can still be wonderful in the face of an equally wonderful experience at the Union Square Cafe. 

Now about those calarmari at the top of the post.  Our meal at USC started out with the most incredible calamari I've ever had--and I've had plenty.  But since my Mom's birthday dinner I've not been able to get rid of the craving for the tender (not at all rubbery), slightly, mellowy sweet, crisp, calamari we had that night.  So I opened up my copy of The Union Square Cafe Cookbook and sure enough there was the recipe--and the secret to USC's uniquely fabulous version. 

So I ran to Fins and Tails, picked up some calamari (thankfully, already cleaned) and then I got a box of graham cracker crumbs.  Let me tell, you, this was the easiest, quickest, most satisfyingly delicious calamari I've had since eating at USC.  This was my first time cooking calamari and I plan to add this recipe to my regular rotation.  Check it out--and the next time you plan a trip down to New York City, check out the Union Square Cafe--they've still got it--in spades!

Here are some photos from our dinner at USC.  Scroll down to the end for the recipe for the calamari and anchovy mayo.

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Fried Calamari with Spicy Anchovy Mayonnaise (ate it so fast, almost forgot the photo)

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Crispy Lemon-Pepper Duck with Pomegranate-Duck Jus, Carmalized onion-chestnut Farroto and Braised Tuscan Black Kale

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Creamy Polenta with Marscapone, Toasted Walnuts and Crumbled Gorgonzola

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Grilled Smoked Cedar River Shell Steak with Mashed Potatoes and Frizzled Leeks

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Roasted Organic Chicken with Mustard-Cognac Sauce and Roasted Root Vegetables

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Chocolate Truffle Cake with vanilla ice cream

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Warm Semolina Cake with Candied Quince and Dulce de Leche Gelato (the cake was "melt in your mouth" perfection.

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USC's Banana Tart with Honey-Vanilla Ice Cream and Macadamia Brittle

Fried Calamari with Spicy Anchovy Mayonnaise (as adapted from the Union Square Cafe Cookbook)

Anchovy Mayonnaise

  • 1 large egg at room temperature
  • 5 anchovy fillets
  • 2 tablespoons lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon rough chopped parsley
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
  • 3/4 cup light or mild olive oil

In a food processor, combine the egg, anchovies, lemon juice, parsley and cayenne and blend until smooth.  With the motor running, slowly add the oil to make a mayonnaise.  Transfer the sauce to a bowl and refrigerate, covered tightly, until ready to use.  Mayo will keep for about two days.

Fried Calamari

  • 1 pound fresh, cleaned calamari
  • 4 cups of light or mild olive oil or vegetable oil
  • 1 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1 cup graham cracker crumbs
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Cut the calamari into 1/4 inch rings.  If the tentacles are large, halve or quarter them lengthwise.  Refrigerate until reaady to use.

Pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed, straight-sided 3 quart saucepan, about 8 inches in diameter.  To prevent the oil from bubbling over when frying the calamari, the pan should be no nore than one third full.  Heat the oil to 360 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer.  (To check the temp without a thermometer, drop a small of bread (crouton size) into the oil.  It should float to the surface immediately adn brown lightly in 45 seconds)

Combine the flour and graham cracker crumbs in a bowl.  Divide te calamari into two or three batches.  Toss each batch in the flour mixture to coat evenly.  Shake the calamari in a mesh strainer (a spider works great too) to shed excess coating.  Using tongs or a slotted spoon, gently lower each batch of calamari into the hot oil and fry until golden brown (about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes).  Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Sprinkle with salt.  The cooked calamari can be kept warm in an oven on low while you cook the remaining batches.  Check your oil temperature (360 degrees) and repeat with the remaining calamari.  Serve hot with the chilled anchovy mayonnaise.

December 08, 2005

Stefon's Place at the Parkview

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The development of the East Genesee Arts Corridor in Syracuse has to be one of the most exciting things happening here.  It is a great thing for this part of the city and, selfishly I'll admit, a good thing for me.  The idea of having cool galleries, theaters and restaurants so close to home thrills me to no end.  I've written in the past about my trials and tribulations when looking for something to eat in the neighborhood in the late afternoon--if it weren't for the Lucky Moon Cafe I'd go hungry.  But now there is a new cafe on the scene which means:  Choices!

Stefon's Place is located in the recently opened Parkview Hotel.  The Parkview is a gem of a hotel--at least once a week I think about checking in just for sanity's sake.  The rooms are beautifully appointed and all feature kitchenettes and flat screen televisions with one of the lowest rates in the downtown area.  If this is a sign of things to come we'll be lucky indeed.

Stefon's is already a place I've begun to dip into for a cup of organic tea and house-made blueberry muffins after my 7:30 a.m. meetings.  The muffins I've had--which were chock full of juicy blueberries and still warm from the oven--are what led me to come back to check out lunch.  The nice view of Forman Park and the free wi-fi sealed the deal.

There were several nice selections on their menu--including a yummy sounding Chicken Waldorf Salad--wild apples, walnuts, raisins, celery, and romaine lettuce.   In addition, there are posted specials each day.  Today's Three Cheese Quiche sounded wonderful until I learned that one of the cheeses was processed American Cheese--and if you've read more than two posts on this blog you would understand how this might be a problem for me. 

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Still, I decided on a wrap with turkey, brie, baby greens and herbed mayo.  Sounds great, right?  Well it was okay; there was too much mayo for my taste which overpowered the mild brie.  It was accompanied by popcorn.  Hmm.  Not the choice I would have made but the chef says that she wanted to try something different and that until recently, the sandwiches had no accompaniment at all.  The popcorn didn't work for me so she nicely obliged and gave me a side bowl of baby greens and a packet of Newman's Own Balsamic Vinaigrette.

For something sweet I had one of their triple chocolate chip cookies and some Breakfast Bliss tea.  It is clear that there is talent in the baking department.  The cookie is monster-sized (the last time I had one, it lasted me three days) but delicious and studded with the largest chips and chunks of chocolate I've found in a cookie outside my own kitchen. 

What's great about Stefon's is that they provide another cool option for hanging out and doing a little work on the computer in a nice atmosphere most times of the day.  They are open from 6:30 am to 10:00 pm Monday through Friday, 7:00 am to 10:00 pm on Saturday and 7:00 am to 1:00 pm on Sunday.  They have wine, beer, and mixed drinks in the evening as well as a small plates menu.

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They also get points for selling organic and fair trade tea and coffee--going as far as to sell some of Dean's Beans coffee beans under the Stefon's Place label.  They even sell beans bagged for a single pot serving--very cute and a nice way to try a little before committing to a full pound.  And this is the only place I've found that sells Zhena's Gypsy Tea for consumption.

Stefon's Place has only been open for less than two months and I'll look forward to seeing how they refine their menu in the months to come.  In the meantime, check them out for yourself and help support the revitalization of this part of Syracuse.

Stefon's Place, 713 East Genessee Street (across from Forman Park) Syracuse, New York

October 29, 2005

Atlanta's Woodfire Grill

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From the moment I read the write up on Atlanta's Woodfire Grill in Bon Appetit's 2004 Restaurant issue--I knew I had to check it out.  So last October, while in Atlanta for a conference, I made a reservation (our only meal out) for the eight of us to dine there.  I've been dreaming of it ever since.  Actually, at a planning meeting this past January to prepare for this week's gathering, when the design team asked about great places to eat in Atlanta, I whipped out the menu from my first visit to show them where I was planning on eating.  And no, I don't carry every restaurant menu in my briefcase but this place is special.

The Woodfire Grill captured my palate off the bat for several reasons.  The first was their great website--a colorful, informative, and enticing site that made no bones about Chef Michael Tuohy's love for local, organic and sustainable meats and produce.  He had come to Atlanta from the San Francisco Bay Area bringing the sensibility of Alice Waters along with him.  How could I not love this place?  In what used to be a seating area--now the Cafe at Woodfire--postcards touting Point Reyes Blue Cheese and info about the local farmers' markets helped me to learn about the food Chef Tuohy valued and his commitment to supporting local producers.  And then there was the wine list--a fabulous list and much of it available by the glass.  That they served Hangar One vodka and had some of New York's own Brewery Ommegang beer on hand sealed the mark of high quality for this establishment.

Last Monday, I managed to convince four friends to "trust me" for a return visit--they're still talking about it.  This second visit was another meal to remember.  Like that first visit, we had seats at the long table that looks right onto the namesake grill.  We ordered drinks and watched the food theatre taking place just a few feet away.

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I had the Berkshire Farm pork chop with Anson Mill grits, steel pan greens and apple butter.  Whenever I have porkchops I'm reminded that getting a flavorful, moist chop to the table is easier said than done.  Woodfire gets it just right, though.  The greens and apple butter were the perfect foil for the creamy grits.  I couldn't figure out which wine would be best but our server steered me in the right direction with a German Riesling--oh how I wish I could remember the winery...

Other dishes on the table--grilled rib eye with a celery root and potato puree, greens and truffle butter, and a mixed grill of New Zealand venison, duck, potatoes, spaghetti squash and muscadine jelly (not pictured)--all fabulous except that our L wished she'd had more duck. 

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By this time we were stuffed--but not too stuffed to contemplate dessert.  But before we could get that order in two great things happened:  Chef Tuohy obliged my request for a photograph and then he sent a gift of a cheese course to our table.  Several of them were local, artisanal cheeses from nearby Thomasville, GA.  The standouts for me were the Sweet Grass Dairy pecan chevre--from Thomasville and a Campo de Montalban from Toledo, Spain.  The cheeses were accompanied by marcona almonds and that delicious pecan raisin bread that came in the bread basket. 

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Gluttons that we are, we ordered a few desserts to share anyway--I had a duet of house-made vanilla and cinnamon ice creams and R had the apple crisp with vanilla ice cream and a cookie.    Also on the table was the dark chocolate-cherry tart with chocolate mousse and chocolate sauce--too much chocolate--nah--it was luscious and not overdone.

The Woodfire Grill has done much to expand my notion of what Atlanta dining is like.  I think Tuohy's influence is bearing fruit.  If Woodfire and the other excellent meal we had at One Midtown Kitchen are any indication--Atlanta will soon be called Hotlanta for its hip and creative food scene.  In any case, I have filed the latest menu I rescued from Woodfire and look forward to my next visit--hopefully before another October rolls around.

September 26, 2005

La Cena

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I've known about La Cena for quite a while now and somehow had never made it over to Fayetteville to eat there.  This is what I knew:  La Cena was very good.  La Cena was pricey.  La Cena was owned by the chef-owner of Alto Cinco  Johanna Yorke.  La Cena was hard to find.  Only about half of that information was correct.  La Cena was great.  La Cena was as expensive as other restaurants of its caliber--a good range of prices but certainly not overpriced.  La Cena is indeed owned by the good folks at Alto Cinco (is that an upside down hand at the entrance--an inside counter-reference to Alto Cinco which means "high five"?  And yes La Cena was hard to find.

In fact it was so hard to find that our caravan of four cars never would have eaten there if we didn't have an able guide to show us the way.  And even then it felt like we were on some secret mission that ended down a dark driveway that led to the back of an otherwise "regular" looking late 19th century house.  There were no signs out front, no clue to tel you of the treasures that lay in store.

But isn't that the way with many of the gems of Syracuse?  You have to hunt a bit to find them--it takes a little work but the rewards are generous.  Such is the case at La Cena.

P8250061Off the top, La Cena gets points for its wonderfully inventive menu--a mix of north African and Mediterranean cuisine.  A large swath of territory to be sure.  Their menu is divided up into small plates ($5-9.00) and large plates ($14-22.00).  Salads are also availble. Small plates such as grilled scallions with salsa romescu, sauteed wild mushrooms and leeks with sherry, and a amanida (like an antipasto plate) featuring serrano ham and house-made pickles and house cured salmon tell you that this is a unique place.

On Sundays, the menu is devised based on what's available and so changes week by week--gotta love that.  And after a long 12 hours of work I could think of no better way to end the day.  With seven in our party for a birthday celebration we were able to make our 8:00 reservation and were seated promptly upon arrival.  Entering La Cena is like entering another world.  A world of Moorish arches, tile mosaics and ceiling murals that makes Syracuse seen far, far away. 

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Water glasses filled, drink orders taken, and out comes grilled bread (crusty on the outside and chewy on the inside) along with bowls of fava and white bean puree.  Yum.  Among the seven of us we ended up ordering the same three dishes:  Moroccan chicken, Coq au Vin, and lamb chops.  Due to the lateness of the hour we dispensed with the appetizer/small plate course.

The Moroccan Stewed Chicken is a standard on the menu--and for good reason.  Exquisitely tender chicken surrounded by olives, preserved lemon halves, dried plums and saffron was spicy, complex, and delicious.  The Coq au Vin was just the comfort food I was looking for--the chicken was infused with red wine but not overwhelmed by it.  Mushrooms (which had retained their bite and flavor) were little surprises sprinkled throughout the dish.  in the center sat the smashed potatoes.  These were treated gingerly.  They were not so much smashed as gently broken up--a good thing too because they would not have stood up to the chicken otherwise.  The Cambria Syrah I ordered was the perfect match for this red-wine dish. The Birthday Girl ordered the lamb chops--I didn't taste them but there were no complaints and lots of "mmm" sounds.

P8250060_1 The meal would have been a hit without dessert but the tiramisu birthday cake brought out by a trio serenading "Happy Birthday" was one of the finest I'd ever had.  It was not overpowered by the espresso.  It was not bitter.  It was all sweetness and light--the cream layer simply floated it was so light.  This is the real deal and would be worth a return on its own merits. 

La Cena means "evening meal"--such a quotidian word for such an exceptional dining experience.  I'm already planning our return visit.  No directions needed.

La Cena is located at 105 West Genesee Street in Fayetteville (on the left side of the road as you enter the village of Fayetteville in the back of red house.)  For directions, reservations, and questions call 637-3388.



September 05, 2005

Limited Pastabilities

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Beautiful Stretch Bread at Pastabilities

There are so many things that are great about Pastabilities in Armory Square that it kills me that I can't rave more about the food.  I had a second meal there on Friday night when I strolled down there with some first year students. 

The great things: 

Without a reservation they were able to seat a group of eight immediately in a private dining area that was charming and just right for conversation. 

We were very well cared for--our orders arrived in a timely way as did that fabulous Stretch Bread which I'm convinced will help put Syracuse on the culinary map.

It has such a great and festive vibe--and is very affordable--so it is the kind of place that is really fun to eat at.  I should also say that most of us that night were very happy with the food.

Now, I'd been to Pastabilities previously on a night when I wanted a familiar and comforting dish of spaghetti and meatballs.  On that visit I never finished my dinner--and it wasn't because I had filled up on too much Stretch Bread.  The pasta was over cooked and sticky, there was too little sauce and the meatballs were too big (not usually a complaint but I couldn't even work them into the pasta and the scant sauce the way I like to do). 

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But last Friday I decided to go the small plates route and order an appetizer and a salad.  The salad was fine--spinach and sliced pears with slices of toasted pecan raisin bread (also baked in house) slathered with gorgonzola cheese. 

But the dish I really wanted didn't work so well.  Mozzarella and basil wrapped in radicchio and proscuitto in a balsamic viniagrette.  Unfortunately, the flavors which should have popped--like a bite of salty-sweet carmarlized proscuitto--didn't.  The proscuitto (which I suspect was domestic) was sliced way too thick and was overcooked.  I had expected a thinly sliced proscuitto melting just so around the mozzarellla and adding a sweet contrast to the radicchio.  However, I could have lived with it as it was were it not for the very acidic balsamic vinegar which pooled around the entire dish.  There was no avoiding it and it completely overpowered the rest of the dish. 

Maybe I'm just too picky.  Maybe those two weeks bicycling and hiking through Tuscany a few years back have spoiled me.  I really want to have a meal I can rave about at Pastabilities.  One of my students came up with the title of this post--I'm going to keep going back in the hopes that I can amend it to something like "Wonderful Pastabilities."  Soon I hope.

August 22, 2005

Rachel Ray for a Day--Syracuse on $40!

Libraryskyline_01 When people think of the cities of New York--the big one, New York City comes to mind.  But in the heart of New York State lies a city on the lake that offers great art, a world-class university, outdoor activities such as mountain biking, trails, skiing and water sports just minutes from downtown--and FABULOUS food.  Today we're going to the Salt City--Syracuse, New York.  Syracuse gets its name from a town in Sicily, Italy but its nickname comes from all the salt it produced in 19th century.  Street names like Salina are reminders of a formerly vibrant industry.  The salt may be gone but there is plenty of spice in this city.  I've got $40.00 in my pocket--will that be enough for me to get a taste of Central New York?  We'll see.

Sitting on Onondaga Lake, just 90 minutes south of Lake Ontario, 3 1/2 hours from Manhattan and Toronto, and a stone's throw away from the Finger Lakes, Syracuse is a city of just 230,000 but has the art, culture, and culinary scene of a much larger place.  This is the place that invented both the ferris wheel and the 24 second shot clock.  This is one of the historic homes of the 20th century Arts and Crafts movement--world famous Stickley furniture is made in the area to this day. 

The Syracuse area is also known for its farms--dairy, produce, and livestock--which dot the picturesque landscape surrounding the city.  Sure you'll find a good share of Irish pubs, diners, and Italian restaurants but you can also get great Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, and new American cuisine that sources fresh, local, and organic ingredients.

Lucky_moon_ext2 My day started off on the right foot with breakfast at the Lucky Moon Cafe in the burgeoning arts district that includes the Syracuse Stage theatre.  Lucky Moon has been open just a year and has quickly become the place for delicious omlettes, sandwiches, and soups as well as poetry slams and music in the evenings.  Located in the building that houses the Onondaga School of Massage and the luxurious Spa Zend day spa, Lucky Moon has quickly become a part of the happening Syracuse scene.  I knew I had a big day ahead so I sought the soothing vibe of a Lucky Moon breakfast to get me started. 

Omlette_at_lucky_moonI was the lucky one today to have co-owner Roxanne herself prepare my omlette.  Two eggs, mushrooms, bacon and cheddar cheese with a side of tuscan toast and a cup of white jasmine tea.  I pulled up a seat, grabbed a copy of the latest Syracuse New Times while Roxanne got busy behind the counter.  A few minutes later I was in heaven--the omlette was perfectly prepared with bits of white cheddar oozing out of the sides and crispy bits of bacon studded throughout.  Well fed and with a plaLucky_moon_tabn for the day I headed out to explore the area.  But my tab wasn't going to slow me down.  That omlette with toast and tea only came to about $7.00 leaving my pockets as full as my tummy.

With all of its urban charms, Syracuse is also considered the eastern anchor of the Finger Lakes Wine country.  The Finger Lakes are made up of 11 lakes that stretch vertically down the center of New York State like long fingers.  Renown for their beauty this region is also home to the oldest wineries in New York.  Dr. Konstantin Frank and Bully Hill are the grandfathers of the wine revolution in New York but in recent years vineyards such as Silver Thread, Red Newt, Glenora, Bloomer Creek, Sheldrake Pointe, and Lamoreaux Landing to name a few are creating a wine and food scene that is drawing folks from all over.

Restaurant_at_elderberry_pond_3 One of the newest restaurants on the scene is at Elderberry Pond Farm--an organic farm that has been in operation for over twenty years.  Located in Auburn--near Skanealeles Lake,it provided a great trip to the country but was only thirty minutes away from downtown Syracuse.  The restaurant had is first summer season this year and the food has proven to be worthy of the hype.  The visit to Elderberry Pond Farm today fit in perfectly with my desire to eat locally--especially this month for the Eat Local Challenge.  August_1419_2005_053_6 And at Elderberry Pond you can practically walk to your food source.  Many of the vegetable fields and orchards are just across the road from the restaurant and the meat is organically raised just a few miles away in the adjacent town of Weedsport.

I'm not usually a big burger person these days but I couldn't resist the Angus burger with feta and roasted peppers that topped the Elderberry Pond seasonal menu.  This has to be the thickest and juciest burger I've ever had.  A cool cucumber salad was served on the side--just as fresh and flavorful as if it had been picked that day--because it probably had.  The restaurant also features an excellent wine list made up of wines from New York State, California, and Europe that reflects the owners expertise in pairing up food wines that delicious and often organic.  Plus, almost all of the wines they offer are sold by the glass--an excellent way to try something new without a huge investment.

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How big is this burger?                                Hmm!  So. Good.

A_bite_of_chocolate_tartPamalee Reeve, the pastry chef at Elderberry Pond Farm is quickly making a name for herself.  After I made her Raspberry Almond Tart from the Gourmet magazine article I knew I couldn't miss dessert.  I was rewarded with a luscious chocolate tart topped with freshly picked raspberries and drizzled with a raspberry puree--incredible.  I would come back here just for the dessert.

In additon to the restaurant, Elderberry Pond operates a small store where you can pick up their homemade jams, organic chickens, beet greens, and other fresh produce.  New York State cheeses and dairy products are also sold.

Elderberry_tab_1 So how much did this trip to the country set me back--just over $17.00.  With tax and tip my grand total was $20.00.  That brought me to a total of $27.00 leaving me $13.00 for the rest of the day. 

One of the major centers of creativity, intellectual exploration and technological and environmental innovation has been Syracuse University and the State University of New York's School of Envrironmental Science and Forestry (SUNY-ESF).  A day in Syracuse wouldn't be complete without a visit to University Hill.  The SU campus is a great place to hang out whether or not you are a student.  The campus plays host to everyone from Gary Trudeau to Michael Moore to Soledad O'Brien to Snoop Doggy Dog.  There is always something going on.  This is also the place to come for one of the best views of the city--watching the sun set over downtown and Onondaga Lake is a breathtaking experience.  But all that walking has made me hungry--time to think about dinner.

With thirteen dollars in my pocket I wanted a good meal that wasn't going to do a number on my budget.  A few students who were back early for Orientation week led me in the right direction.  Alto Cinco was the call.  Alto Cinco is located about 15 minutes walk from the SU campus in what is affectionately called the Westcott Nation--the "Berkeley, CA of Syracuse".  So not only was I going to get great Mexican food--it was going to be healthy (even vegan if I wanted!) and affordable.

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I walked into Alto Cinco and they were packed--as they are every night they're open.  Monday nights usually feature wine flights and on nice summer nights like tonight, tables and people spill out onto funky Westcott Street.  I found a spot in the restaurant and tried to settle on what to eat.  My problem was--everything looked good on the menu.  Dine_and_dish_august_2005_028 But there it was:  a catfish burrito with chiplote mayo, rice, and cheese.  Hmmm mmm.  And for just two dollars more I get a piece of the scrumptious jalepeno cornbread (I can never say no to cornbread) and a side salad.  But the joint was packed so I took my order to go.  At Alto Cinco the small touches mean alot.  All their cooking relies on great, fresh ingredients.  So I shouldn't have been surprised to find my little side salad filled with tasty things sliced radishes, cucumbers, scallions, and a variety of lettuces. 

The burrito, large enough to feed a small family, was a revelation.  Each bite yielded tastes of lightly fried catfish, spicy mayo, rice and a warmed flour tortilla.  I could only finish half of it--bonus, lunch for tomorrow!  But the cornbread, if you could find a crumb of this wonderfully moist and spicy slice you'd be lucky.  Did this feast cost me mucho dinero?  Not a chance. With tax and tip I was only out $12.00.  Dine_and_dish_august_2005_031 Leaving me with a grand total of $39.00 for the day and one dollar in my pocket.  There's a great tip:  when you're visiting a college town, ask the students.  They'll always have the scoop on good food, cheap.  Not content to leave without something sweet to remember my visit, I spied some amazing looking chocolate chip cookies by the register.  So I grabbed a cookie and took a walk down the tree-lined streets of this urban neighborhood as the sun set on a fabulous day in Salt City--Syracuse, New York.

Thanks, Sam, for hosting this Dine and Dish #4 and giving me the chance to show off my new home town.  But Rachel Ray can have her job back, I'm all "perky-ed" out.

August 17, 2005

My Place--BC Restaurant

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One of the essential ingredients I need to be really at home in a city or town is the feeling that I have a place.  Cue "Cheers" theme song:  you know, the kind of place where everybody knows your name.  It is the place where I feel at home when I walk through the door.  When I lived in Berkeley, CA, the Cheeseboard, where I went nearly every morning for a scone and a cup of coffee, was my place.  In Syracuse the Lucky Moon Cafe, on East Genesee Street, has become my place.  I'm frequently there for breakfast--or just to hang out when I need a break.

Lunch and dinner are a different story.  From the moment I discovered it last summer BC Restaurant  on Fayette Street in Armory Square has been MY PLACE.  Valentines Day, birthday, entertaining out of town guests, or because I just feel like it, are all reasons to get to BC.  With its fresh, mostly locally sourced food, inventive (for Syracuse) menu, and consistently great food and service BC has become a second home of sorts.  After living in Berkeley where we often walked to Chez Panisse for lunch or dinner and frequented such wonderful places as Oliveto  in Oakland, Cafe Rouge in Berkeley, and Absinthe and Citizen Cake  in San Francisco, my husband and I grew accustomed to really great food.  Thank God for the folks at BC--they make it possible for us to really enjoy Syracuse.

So today, reveling in my last few days of vacation, I took myself to lunch at BC.  Actually, I go to BC for lunch often--though dinner is more of a treat, lunch is quite affordable.  But make no mistake, after a full morning of hard work in the garden, I totally splurged on a simple but dedcadent meal.

It is said that you can tell the greatness of a restaurant by its simplest dishes.  So without needing to see the menu (which Sean, my waiter, correctly surmised I had commited to memory) I ordered the grilled cheese sandwich.  You can tell by the photo how delicous it was--grilled Tuscan bread with layers of sharp cheddar cheese and fresh, local tomatoes (from Tierra Farm outside Skaneateles) and country-style mustard.  The greens were perfectly dressed in a light viniagrette--the perfect accompaniament. 

As if that weren't rich enough--I asked for creme brulee for dessert (the Eat Local Challenge will be easy today 'cause I'm not eating much else for the rest of the day).  Creme Brulee tends to be one of those overdone desserts that appears on the menu of "upscale" restaurants.  I'm always surprised at how easy it is to get it a bit wrong.  Remember, the greatness of a restaurant....  This creme brulee was just right--creamy but not cloying with a sugar crust that cracked like fine glass under my spoon. I savored each and every bite.  And what price, this decadence?  My food bill was just over $12.00.  And you know how it goes...the experience of a fabulous meal in a place that feels like home--Priceless.

BC.  My place.  Should be yours too.

July 08, 2005

Berkshire Feasting

As much as I love my new home of Central New York, I do enjoy getting out of town from time to time.  This past week I had the good fortune (and good friends) to be invited for a few days in the Berkshires--one of my most beloved places in the world.  I went to college in Western Massachusetts and this area has held onto a piece of my heart (and my stomach) for over twenty years. 

Misc_044This week, in between naps, reading, and excursions to Tanglewood for the James Taylor concert (which was awesome!) my friends and I managed to squeeze in a wonderful day of art and culture at the Mass MOCA (Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art).  The art was incredible--as usual--including this brand new installation of two cranes knitting an American flag (with utility poles!)  But while we were there, we had an awesome lunch at the museum cafe which has recently changed--as of a few days ago--into an American/ latin fusion place called Cafe Latino.

Cafe Latino recently hired a Peruvian chef from New York City who created a fantastic menu of food and wine.  I mean, they have plantains and tres leches cakes on the menu--how fabulous is that?  And because they groove with the Berkshire eat local vibe, much of the food was locally sourced.   I think this place would be worth a visit even if you aren't planning to visit Mass MOCA.  North Adams is just a few minutes from Williamstown, so if you find yourself in that neck of the woods, keep going east on Route 2 for some great eats.

So what would I recommend?  I don't think you can go wrong at this place.  They started us off with a complimentary basket of house-made tortilla chips and salsa.  Then I had a simple green salad with a garlic and citrus viniagrette that was peppery and fresh--a great warm up.  My friends shared a cup of lentil and chorizo soup with cilantro.  Unfortunately, it was so good, they devoured it before I knew what has happening--but take their word for it--it was delicious.

We did pass our plates when it came to the main course.  I had the lamb empanadas with escabeche and black mint sauce while my friends had the pulled pork sandwich with toasted pop corn nuts and fish tacos.

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We were all members of the clean plate club.  My lamb empanadas were packed with spice that was nicely complimented by the bit of eschebeche--a sauce made of pickled jalapenos.  The pulled pork sandwich tasted like it had been cooking for hours--like good 'cue should.  The purple potato salad that was served on the side was strewn with bits of smoked bacon.  My friend really loved those zany toasted pop corn nuts--all crunchy and corn tasting (but not like the burnt corn nuts that are the bottom of the Orville Reddenbacher bag--these were good.)  But the stand out, I think, were the fish tacos.  Crispy haddock were wrapped in soft flour tortillas with a creamy guacamole and romesco sauce--these were yummy!

It really was the perfect day--good art, good eats, and great friends in the mountains of Western Massachusetts--vacation is a beautiful thing!

June 30, 2005

The Craftsman House--The Restaurant

Craftsman_inn_june_30_2 Tonight, three colleagues and I had dinner at the Craftsman House Restaurant in Fayetteville.  I had checked out their menu on their website months ago but frankly, wasn't that excited about going.  As it turns out, with one exception, I was really delightlfully pleased with the food. 

Upon entering the Craftsman House we were greeted by wonderful Stickley furnishings--a great homage to the famous Arts and Crafts designers and Central New York natives.  Unfortunately, we were seated in the booths where we lost any sense of the craftsman design aesthetic--we could have been anywhere.  Those who sat at the tables had the experience of sitting in Stickley chairs.  But the overall atmosphere was pleasant and the service was nicely attentive. 

We started our meal with salads (which came with the entree selection) and an appetizer--which I ordered in lieu of a salad.  My dining companions found the salads to be okay--nothing really stand out--but good.  I opted for the Crispy Thai Shrimp which were wrapped in rice paper and done to perfection.  They were accompanied by a chili ginger dipping sauce--and underneath, a touch of pickled seaweed with sesame seeds, a surprise that made me very happy.

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The main courses also did not disappoint.  Two of us had the pecan-cCraftsman_inn_june_30_005rusted Atlantic salmon--and it was great.  Salmon (farmed) was flaky and flavorful.  Tucked under the salmon were the most delicious chive mashed potatoes--they were just slightly green in color and exploding with flavor.  These were mashed potatoes I could really get excited about!  There were a good amount of green beans on the side--as well as a few leaves of swiss chard.  The menu mentioned a fennel pumpkinseed broth but I really couldn't detect it.  I actually didn't miss it.

Other entrees at the table included the pan seared Maine scallops with lemon shitake mushroom risotto, sauteed asparagus, and a grilled tomato thyme emulsion--it received raves.  There was also a pistachio-crusted chicken breast with sugar snap peas, mushrooms, fingerling potatoes and a miso roasted garlic glaze--my colleague ate it with gusto.

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After all that we did manage to save room for dessert.  I'd say that for the most part the desserts were just okay.  I was actually a little disappointed in my warm chocolate cake with hazelnut ganache and vanilla bean ice cream and chocolate sauce.  Craftsman_inn_june_30_009 The dish was supposed to come with a marshmellow ice cream but I made a substitution.  The main problem I had was that the cake was really just a standard molten chocolate cake with bits of chopped hazelnuts inside.  From the description--hazelnut ganache, I was expecting that it might be covered in ganache, instead of finding what was really a chocolate truffle (with no real hazelnut flavor to my tastebuds) inside.  Now, one of my colleagues had the same dish (with marshmellow ice cream) and said he really tasted a hazelnut filling, so we are divided on this.

The dessert I should have had was the creme brulee.  Now I should mention that the man who ordered it is something of a creme brulee conossiour.  Craftsman_inn_june_30_007 In fact, I hope to ask him to do a review of the creme brulees to be found in Central New York--he really knows his stuff.  Well, he loved this one.  And it was accompanied by the biggest madeleine I'd ever seen--and it was covered in chocolate! 

I'll have to ask about how much they source local or organic ingredients, but overall, I'd definitely go back--especially to indulge in the creme brulee. 

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