Cookin' in the 'Cuse

Quiche Sabbath

One of the great things about cooking is that it takes time.  Of course, this is also one of its greatest challenges.  For years I would use cooking to de-stress--baking in particular.  My classmates or office mates could always tell if my stress level was higher than normal because brownies, tarts, and scones would start showing up in the classroom or office.  I've been baking since I was eight so I do take a lot of comfort in doing something I feel is relaxing and comforting when life gets a little crazy.  But I think it also has something to do with my attempt to slow things down.  There are some things in cooking that just can't be rushed.  If a quiche needs to bake for 45 minutes it needs 45 minutes--and I can't change that.  So I relax.  Cooking provides me with sabbath time.

Yesterday was Memorial Day.  My husband and I finally had a day off on the same day so we took Chase, our dog, and hit the road to explore Seneca Lake.  But I also baked a quiche.  I started in the morning by picking the greens from the garden and making the dough for the crust (letting it chill while we were out), and I finished it up when we arrived home.  I often find that dividing the labor this way makes the task of cooking (particularly something complicated) much more manageable. 

This recipe is adapted from one by Soyoung Scanlan, an artisinal cheesemaker in Santa Rosa, CA that originally appeared in Saveur magazine.  I know that it is going to seem incredibly rich (no getting around it) but like all quiches, this is open to some experimentation about which and how much cheese you use.  Scanlon uses this recipe with the leftover cheese she doesn't sell at the farmer's market.  The rest of us can use it to clean out our cheese drawer--pretty much any cheese should work.  Also, you can use whatever greens you have on hand--the original recipe called for swiss chard, for example.  Finally, if you are worried about it seeming too decadent, have a small slice with a large salad and forgo that glass of Sauvignon Blanc in favor of water with lemon and enjoy guilt free!

Quiche

For the crust

• 1 1/2 cups flour
• 1/2 cup cornstarch
• 1/2 tsp. salt
• 8 tbsp. cold butter, cut into pieces

For the filling:

• 1 tbsp. butter
• 1 handful of scallions--white and green parts (or one large yellow onion) chopped
• 12 oz. assorted cheeses--softer cheeses cut into chunks, harder cheeses grated (I used a combo of fontina, goat-gouda, and a bit of brie)
• 6 eggs
• 1/2 cup milk
• About 2lbs greens of your choice:  spinach, kale, swiss chard, beet greens all work well, stems and ribs removed, leaves blanched, drained and finely chopped.
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

1.  For the crust:  combine flour, cornstarch, and salt in a large bowl.  Using a pastry blender or two table knives, work butter into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal flecked with pea-size pieces of butter, then rub butter pieces into flour mixture with your fingers.  And up to 6 tbsp. ice water, 1 tbsp. at a time, mixing until a rough dough forms.  Knead dough in bowl until it just comes together, then shape into a ball.  Flatten ball into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours. 

Alternatively, you can prepare the crust in a food processor.  Pulse dry ingredients until combined.  Add butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal.  Add water one tbsp. at a time while pulsing until dough begins to come together.  Then place on a board and knead until it just comes together.  Follow the rest of the directions as above.

2.  Preheat oven to 400 degrees.  Roll dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 14" round. 

Ease pastry into a 2" inch deep 10" round loose-bottom tart pan and crimp edges.  Prick dough all over with a fork, line with parchment paper, and add pie weights or dried beans.  Bake until crust is set and edge begins to color, 30-35 minutes.  Remove parchment paper and weights and continue to bake crust until lightly browned, about 5 minutes more.  Remove crust from oven and set aside.  Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.

3.  For the filling:  melt butter in large skillet over medium heat.  Add scallions or onions and cook until soft.  Transfer to a large bowl.  Put cheeses into a food processor and pulse until smooth.  Add eggs and milk and pulse until blended.  Transfer to bowl with scallions.  Add greens, thyme, nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste and mix well.

4.  Pour filling into crust and bake until set, 40 -45 minutes.  Serve quiche at room temperature. 

Counting your chickens

Years ago, before I had ever thought about questioning where food comes from, I remember having one of those random thoughts that wouldn't go away:  there are an incredible number of chickens that get eaten on the average day in America.  I guess the thought came to me while watching a KFC commercial.  But then I thought about all the chickens that are sold at McDonalds, and Chik-fil-a, and Burger King and then I thought about all the chickens that people cook for dinner each day--and I couldn't even begin to add it up.  I then began to think about chickens coming not from the back of the meat section in the supermarket, but from a farm somewhere very far away.

It wasn't until sometime later that the term factory farm would enter my vocabulary and I would come to understand how it is that so many chickens make it to hundreds of thousands of plates every few hours.  The term factory farm is one that applies to much of modern American agriculture.  Feeding this country is no small feat.  But while poultry raising and processing, like that of other kinds of food production, was once based on local and regional family owned farms, most of it is now owned by a few multi-nationals whose main concern is volume and profit. 

These chickens are raised under conditions that are geared to increasing these two factors making issues of humane living conditions and slaughter secondary.  Chickens that are crammed into pens are more prone to passing diseases so they are regularly fed antibiotics to keep them healthy.  Because they need to be available for the conventional market on a year 'round basis, these chickens are raised on grain and not pasture.  Finally, in order to get a good-sized bird to market quickly, they are fed hormones to speed growth.  These drugs and living conditions are not ideal circumstances for the birds nor the people who end up eating them. 

There are, however, an increasing number of alternatives.  One of the easiest is purchasing chicken and other meats from family farms direct or at market.  This provides the opportunity to ask questions about all the terms that are so casually tossed around these days including:  organic, free range, pasture raised, humanely farmed, and antibiotic and hormone free.  More importantly, it allows you to interact with the person you have entrusted with your health. 

Central New York has many great sources for poultry--several of which are easily accessible in Syracuse:  McDonald Farm, (where these photos are from) Sweet Grass Farm, and Cobblestone Valley.  They are commited to growing "clean" food that is healthy for both animals and humans and environmentally sustainable.  The Eat Wild website can help you find pasture raised meats in your area. 

Another alternative is raising your own.  That's right--you can raise your own chickens for eggs with land the size of the average back yard.  This is an idea that is quickly catching on among urban homesteaders and others concerned about not supporting factory farms.  To read a blog about how one couple does it--in urban Oakland, CA--click here.

I'll raise another issue that I will address in more depth later and that is cost.  There is no doubt, especially in Central New York, that eating healthier chickens costs more.  There are a few reasons for this.  One issue is simple supply and demand.  In places like the Bay Area where you can buy organic or hormone-free chicken at any supermarket or butcher shop (remember those?) the prices are kept somewhat lower because of the higher volume of sales.

The second reason is the pure and simple fact that our food prices are artificially low.  As a rule, Americans spend a smaller proportion of the household budget on food than any other industrialized nation.  We don't know the true costs of food.  Well, with rising cancer rates, allergies and other food intolerances, perhaps we do.

A Day at the Markets

Today was an awesome day to be at the farmers' markets.  In central New York, we are still at that time of the year where the produce isn't quite mature enough to bring to market so the farm stands were all full with flowers, herbs, and transplants.  A few weeks ago the markets were pretty sparse in terms of both offerings and people.  Today, however, both the Central New York Regional Market and the Ithaca Farmer's market (above) were packed.  It is the rare lazy Saturday that I get to check out both places but today I got lucky. 

At the CNY Regional Market it was a delight to see the Gimme Coffee stand in full swing.  I started there at about 8:30 and picked up some delicious Mesa de los Santos organic coffee to go.  I highly recommend if you like coffee that takes milk well (it was a smooth and creamy cup--just my speed).   As it turns out, the Gimme Coffee stand will also be at the market on Sundays.  They also offer some baked goods if you want to make an impromptu breakfast as you peruse the market stalls. 

One of the other must-do's at the Regional Market is a visit to the Sweet Grass Farms stand.  Wendy sells pasture-raised poultry and other meats as well as honey and yarn.  Pastured raised meats are healthier than those that are raised on grain or raised on grass and finished on grain.  Wendy's animals graze on pesticide free grass and, like other pasture-raised meats, are higher in Omega 3.  So they are not only incredibly tasty, they are much better for us.  Two weeks ago I picked up one of her spring chickens (which, by the way, is about 5 weeks old) and marinated it in olive oil, garlic, lemon, and chopped spring onions and then roasted it with some butter and fresh, chopped garlic greens stuffed under the skin.  Okay, it sounds a bit over the top for such a young bird, but trust me, the intensity of flavor was out of this world.  I think Wendy will have some spring chickens (frozen) for a few more weeks but will have broilers and roasters throughout the season. 

And here's my other learning of the day:  pasture-raised chickens in this part of the country are seasonal.  While we are used to picking up a chicken anytime we want one, the reality is that if you want to eat organically, locally and in season in this part of the world, fresh chickens are only available for as long as the pasture is growing--mainly spring through late fall.  Some of my neighbors have freezers in their basements so that they can buy enough chicken to get them through the winter without having to resort to the conventional chickens found in most supermarkets.  If this seems like a lot of trouble to go through to avoid conventional chicken--well, maybe it is.  But there is no doubt that it is worth it--more on why its worth the bother tomorrow. 

In the meantime, let me leave you with these beautiful images from the Ithaca Farmer's market where I picked up some gorgeous flowers to pot.  These two are from Blue Heron Farm.  In a few weeks they will have some of the most incredible vegetables but for now, these will more than suffice.

Finding Gimme Coffee at the Market

If you're looking for Gimme Coffee at the Central New York Regional Market here's the scoop:

They're doing brewed & whole bean coffee (no espresso drinks) there out of a shed.  The shed is located on the Northeast corner of the market (north end of building E).  

Enjoy!

Gimme Coffee has come to the 'Cuse

Gimme Coffee, an artisanal coffee roaster based in Ithaca has set up a booth at the Central New York Regional Market in Syracuse.  This is great news.  It is also great coffee.  These folks are fanatic about seeking out great beans and roasting them for the best flavor possible.  Up till now, if you wanted some of their coffee you had to drive to Ithaca--or Brooklyn!--or order off the internet.   But now you can pick some up on Saturday mornings right here in the 'Cuse.  I'm waiting to hear from the owner about the exact booth location so that if you are going just to pick up coffee you can find them easily.  (Of course, if you are going to be there anyway, you might as well pick up some other goodies too.) 

What makes them so great is that they really "get it" about freshly roasted beans and when possible they support coffee growers that are organic and operate using  Fair Trade practices. 

With Starbucks opening up right across the street from Freedom of Espresso down in Armory Square, I'm becoming even more vigilant about supporting our local coffee purveyors--and I don't even drink that much coffee.  I have hopes that one day Gimme Coffee will open a shop in Syracuse--but until then, this is the next bext thing.  So tell your friends to check them out on Saturdays at the Market--and when I get that booth location I'll post it.

I know Syracuse is Salt City but...

Going out to eat is always somewhat of a gamble.  The restaurants that manage to hit it right every night are disappointingly few.  We approached last night's dinner at Pascale's Wine Bar and Restaurant in Armory Square with great anticipation and high expectations.  I'm hoping we can chalk up our mediocre experience to an off night.

We arrived for an early dinner at 6:30 and found the service to be attentive but off cue.  We were asked for our drink order without being given a wine list--and even then I had to request another list that showed wines by the glass.  The list by the bottle was quite extensive but was equally limited in the variety of New York State wines.  But no matter, tonight, we were there for the food.

In general, we found the food to be beautifully presented.  Though the menu was far from seasonal (it seemed a bit late in the season for so much celery root and sweet potatoes) the specials of the day really hit the mark.  I chose to pair two appetizers together.  I started with the Crisped Calamari which was as delicious as its description--the calamari were tender and just salty enough to play off the sweetness of the corn and bell peppers.  The hot peppers added just the right bite to keep it from being cloying. 

I followed it with the risotto of the day--all creamy thanks to some fontina cheese with bits of veal generously scattered throughout.  Spring peas and morels added the seasonal note that kept the dish from feeling too much like winter comfort food.  But it was way too salty.  Luckily, the tasty bread that is made by the Pascale's Bakehouse provided a delicious, if filling, contrast.

Harrison opted for the free range chicken breast that was wrapped in crispy apple wood smoked bacon--the chicken was tender and flavorful but the naturally salty bacon seemed to be covered in....salt.  It was served with mashed sweet potatoes and braised red cabbage.  An extra surprise was the Swiss chard that was sauteed with chopped garlic--I happily helped Harrison finish the greens.

The dessert was okay.  Harrison had a white chocolate mousse covered with dark chocolate ganache all on a bed of a coconut "brownie".  I thought it was too sweet but Harrison liked it just fine.  The creme brulee I ordered was late in coming to the table (they should have held off on Harrison's cake until the brulee was ready) and was just...okay. 

Pascale's seems to occupy a high place in the fine dining world of Syracuse and I can certainly see what they are aiming for.  Unfortunately, I spent too much of the meal wondering about the wonderful food and impeccable service I could have been enjoying across the street at BC.  But I won't give up on Pascale's just yet--I'll give them another try later in the season.

Right in our own backyard

It is always cool to discover that a food I enjoy is actually made right here in Syracuse. Friends of mine turned me on to Enrico's pasta sauces years ago but I had no idea that these natural and organic pasta sauces and salsas are made locally. I love making my own sauces but like everyone, I don't always have the time. In the past I used to go to all kinds of extremes to get my hands on Consilvio's pasta sauces made by Consul's Restaurant in Endicott where I once lived. I would bring back a half case to Berkeley because there was simply nothing like it anywhere--it is that good. Enrico's is good too and is easily found in our area supermarkets. Eating locally/regionally has just gotten a bit easier.

Early Harvest

When I moved to Syracuse last summer I decided that it would be fun to try my hand at organic vegetable gardening. The fact was, we had a great CSA (community supported agriculture) membership with a fantastic farm in the Capay Valley--Riverdog Farm--and we really missed it. It was too late to get into a CSA in Syracuse--so we thought--so we decided to give "growing our own" a try. Besides, we were really wanting to see how many links we could cut out of the farm to market food chain.

I borrowed a book on Lasagne Gardening and purchased a couple of others on organic gardening and spent an hour or two each day clearing out weeds and preparing the beds that would sit under a foot of snow for the better part of five months waiting to be planted. The one exception was the garlic which we actually planted in mid November.

Well, today I picked the first fruits of our harvest: some incredibly delicious Red Russian Kale. Kale is one of my most favorite greens and is, apparently, very easy to grow. (Did I mention that I've never really gardened before, having lived in apartments nearly all my life?) This first pick of Kale is actually going to the Episcopal Bishop of Central New York--Skip Adams--who helped me with the garden by giving me the horse manure from his wife's horses that I used to fertilize the garden. Talk about community gardening!

I have a new appreciation for those who farm and the persistent and often difficult work that is involved in getting food on my plate. Over the past few years I've been learning more about where our food comes from and how much of it travels thousands of miles to reach us. By the time it gets to the market and then into our shopping carts and eventually into our mouths, it has been a week or two from the picking. Fresh produce is not always fresh. Shopping at farmers' markets and growing our own food--even in containers if yard space is unavailable--is a great way to eat really fresh food.  Food Routes has some great info on eating locally.

You gotta start somewhere

Last night I had a wonderful meal in the San Francisco Bay area. And as much as I love to extol the virtues of the San Francisco and New York City food scenes, that is already quite crowded territory. Could it be that the Central New York region might have a budding food scene of its own? I'd like to suggest that this is indeed the case. There are venues serving up eats and drinks that are just delicious right here in the Syracuse area. There are restaurants, farms, wineries and coffee roasters that could hold their own against any from the Bay area, Napa Valley, Portland, Oregon, or the Hudson Valley. And we have the potential to grow.

If you haven't already, these are some places worth checking out:
BC Restaurant in Armory Square
Kettle Lakes Fine Dinng in Tully
Cafe L'Adour
World Martini Bar
Roji Tea Lounge
Lucky Moon Cafe
Gentiles
Alto Cinco
Ambrosia
Syracuse Real Food Co-op
The Central New York Regional Market
Silver Thread Winery

I could go on--and eventually will.

My point is, if you start at Armory Square and then drive up to an hour in any direction, you will encounter feasting opportunities that are more than worth the drive. And much of it can be found right here in the Syracuse metro area. Plus, the possibilities you can create in your own kitchen using local ingredients are endless.

So that is what this blog will be about. I hope you'll come back often to hear what's cookin' in the 'Cuse, and to hear what I'm cookin' and share your own food finds and comments too.

I'll also share thoughts about growing and eating food that is organic, sustainable, and local and why it is so important. Alice Waters, the founder, chef, and owner of Chez Panisse in Berkeley, CA is often quoted as saying, "Eating is an environmental act." In these days, it is also a political act.  In my own small way, I hope to increase the visibility of the Syracuse area as a great place to live and eat and to support our local economy instead of sending money thousands of miles away to eat. And, perhaps, to change the world one bite at a time.