Cookin' in the 'Cuse

Reflections on a Month of Eating Local

Dorset Harvest Farm in mid August

As I talk to folks about my participation in the August Eat Local challenge and as gas prices continue to soar (now at $3.29/gallon in my area for 87 grade) the case for eating locally is getting easier to make. 

I've learned alot this month.  Has participating in the Challenge changed my life or habits--absolutely.  One of the reasons I started this blog was because I wanted to help others understand what great food there is to be had in the Syracuse area.  And when I committed to trying to eat as local as possible I discovered many new food sources.  I learned that there are more local producers making foods that I enjoy than I would have expected.  But I wouldn't say that it has all been easy.

Eating local means thinking before I eat--imagine that.  I can admit to bouts of mindless snacking.  But this month, when the urge to snack came upon me I had to think and remember--where did those pretzels come from?  How about some cherry tomatoes instead?  I know what you're thinking, but with a little sea salt, I promise you I was able to satisfy both my sweet tooth AND my craving for something salty.  And, occasionally, I'd grab a small handful of chips because, well, nothing else would do.  But I had to think about it.

Eating local means that either there will be foods I won't eat because they're not locally produced or I'll have to make some concessions and exemptions.  What am I craving about now?  Bananas, oranges, lobster, proscuitto and Parmigiano Reggiano are the big ones.  All these foods shape the reason why I could never eat 100% local--unlike Cookie Crumb, I didn't even try.  Imported foods can be a beautiful thing.  But I believe they should be the special exception rather than the rule.  I remember when I was a child that receiving a box of navel oranges each winter was a much anticipated treat.  I treasured it all the more because it was special and rare.  For me, this restores a bit of the sacred to the act of eating.

But the issue isn't just about importing fresh and/or organic food--though I'll admit to being troubled by the increasingly high percentage of Wegman's organic produce that comes from Earthbound Farms--it's about being connected to the people who do the life-giving work of producing my food.  I've grown to really cherish having a relationship with the farmers, roasters, chefs, bakers, and other folks who feed me. 

From here on out, I'd like to commit to getting as much food as possible from within my foodshed and importing only what is really necessary and really desirable.  If I could source 75- 80% of my food from local sources --I think both my body and the planet would be healthier.  I am already thinking about planting next year's garden.  I've been pleasantly surprised by how much can be grown in a small space--enough for my family and several friends.  I've also come to really enjoy the work of putting up food and canning.  Our shelves and freezer are slowly filling up with jars of fruit preserves, sauces, summer vegetables.  Storage onions, garlic, potatoes and soon winter squash will continue to fill the root cellar.  Prepping all this food took about as much time as a long trip to the supermarket and cost me pennies.

That last point is not insignificant.  Eating locally saved us a lot of money.  The money we would have spent on buying all of our vegetables I was able to use to pay the higher price for pasture-raised poultry and meat.  I think it is a very fair trade.

I definitely plan to do the Eat Local Challenge again next year.  I really hope that I will just be continuing what will have become a way of life.  As I look forward I wonder if I will be able to follow the Eat Local guidelines for every meal of the day--and how will I fare once winter arrives.  The delicious adventure continues...

n.b.  For a really great list of reasons to eat local--click here for a link to a pdf prepared by Jen of Life Begins at 30.  Thanks Jen for hosting this challenge in blog-world.

Grilled Cheese Day

Today is Grilled Cheese Day.  Slash Food, a new foodie website/blog, is hosting a food porn Monday and today's dish is, you guessed it, grilled cheese.  So inspired by the fabulous grilled cheese and tomato sandwiches served up at BC Restaurant I've been doing a little experimenting. 

As we are still in the Eat Local mode, I was able to find a wonderful smoked cheddar cheese that is produced in Central New York by Palatine for the core of the sandwich and added my own Peach tomatoes and some juicy heirloom reds from Green Rabbit Farm (these were a few leftovers from the amazing tomato bounty Green Rabbit generously donated to the Grace Church food pantry.)   

As for method, I went the classic route--the way my Mom taught me.  I lightly buttered the outside of some really good bread, turned the slices over and spread one side with a grainy dijon mustard, layered in the cheese and tomatoes and put the sandwich in one of my old reliable cast iron pans.  Another, smaller, cast iron pan went on top and my tea kettle full of water added additional weight.  I let it cook for several minutes on each side until the cheese began to ooze out the sides.  A handful of Terra Chips for some crunch (not local but I couldn't resist) and I was good to go.  Not quite BC worthy--but not bad for home on the fly.

A few choices

I've been wanting to read Barry Schwartz's book, The Paradox of Choice  for some time now but as we approach the final days of the Eat Local Challenge I think his book has moved to the top of my reading list.  Schwartz writes about the anxiety that a consumer/shopper generates by having to choose from so many options in any one category of goods.  One of the lessons I learned over the past several weeks is that eating locally does mean making some choices.  Sometimes these choices are difficult--"can I still eat the Ithaca Chocolate even if its made in Switzerland?"  Ah...no.  But there is some comfort in knowing that many of my choices have been made for me.  Some of these choices are made by food distributors and others are made by mother nature--Central New York-grown celery root in June is not a real possibility.

As I went through the garden to pick what was ripe today I noticed the changing variety and limited choice of my yield.  A couple of months ago, my bowl would have been filled with lettuces, broccoli raab, and kale.  Now, my bowl is filled with yellow squash, tomatoes, collards, and a squash blossom.  By the end of the next month it will probably have butternut squash, kale, and maybe red chard that I recently seeded. 

My point is--I am no longer overwhelmed by the simple act of going to the supermarket and looking at the sea of produce choices to determine my dinner.  I remember reading Alice Waters' directive to do just that in the Chez Panisse Cafe cookbook--walking into the Berkeley Bowl I didn't know where to begin.  Instead of anxiety, eating locally (and hence seasonlly) means getting creative with what is available perhaps trying out a new dish. 

Instead of trying to choose from a cereal aisle the length of a basketball court, I can easily choose the few locally produced cereals that offered.  It isn't that I don't like choices--I really do.  But there is a part of me longs for a simpler time when a market may have given a few really good options instead of a couple dozen mediocre ones.  When I go to the large supermarkets I have to spend so much time sorting out my choices that it can be energy draining.  When I go to the Co-op or the organic farmers markets, I know that some of the "weeding out" has been done for me.  I know that the choices I make for my meals are made from the healthy, local options available. 

I guess I'm rambling a bit but with just a few days left in the month I'm hoping that the Eat Local Challenge will be a way of a life rather than a summer novelty.  I am glad that my options are not as limited as I had previously thought and I rejoice that some of my choices are no longer as overwhelming.

And by the way, though I will continue to eat local, chocolate will ALWAYS be one of my exemptions!

Let's Hear it for the Southern Tier

If the west coast (and now, the nation) looks to Chez Panisse as the spark of a food revolution, the east coast (if not the nation) looks to the Moosewood as the first place that taught many how to eat well on a sustainable vegetarian diet.  When I was working on my graduate degree at Cornell University I loved to tell anyone who cared to listen that I lived one block down and around the corner from the famed restaurant.  It is probably no accident that by the time I reached Berkeley, CA for further graduate study this "fried chicken and ribs Brooklyn kid" had transitioned to a diet that was 85% vegetarian (I never did give up fish and proscuitto). 

Well times have changed and I am as likely to enjoy a nicely grilled pasture-raised porkchop as I am to dive into teriyaki tofu.  Times have changed for the Moosewood too.  After 32 years they are still in their original spot in a rapidly expanding downtown Ithaca, but they have expanded their cookbook offerings and a frozen soup line to make their food and their philosophy accessible to all.  Now, it seems as if I've come full-circle:  on my most recent visit to the Moosewood on Tuesday I accompanied four Syracuse University students on my leadership team on their pilgrimage to this sacred place.  Ah...another generation is transformed.

Meanwhile, yesterday's New York Times had an article on the front page of the Dining In section reporting on the farm to school connection (yet another piece of the Alice Water's legacy).  Most folks who know me know of my desire to change the food system on the Syracuse University campus to reflect more healthy, locally-sourced options.  What a nice surprise, then, to read of successful efforts noted in the school districts of Owego and Whitney Point (just west and north of Binghamton, respectively). 

Yes, we have a long way to go on some of these issues in Central New York.  But signs of hope abound. 

Rachel Ray for a Day--Syracuse on $40!

When people think of the cities of New York--the big one, New York City comes to mind.  But in the heart of New York State lies a city on the lake that offers great art, a world-class university, outdoor activities such as mountain biking, trails, skiing and water sports just minutes from downtown--and FABULOUS food.  Today we're going to the Salt City--Syracuse, New York.  Syracuse gets its name from a town in Sicily, Italy but its nickname comes from all the salt it produced in 19th century.  Street names like Salina are reminders of a formerly vibrant industry.  The salt may be gone but there is plenty of spice in this city.  I've got $40.00 in my pocket--will that be enough for me to get a taste of Central New York?  We'll see.

Sitting on Onondaga Lake, just 90 minutes south of Lake Ontario, 3 1/2 hours from Manhattan and Toronto, and a stone's throw away from the Finger Lakes, Syracuse is a city of just 230,000 but has the art, culture, and culinary scene of a much larger place.  This is the place that invented both the ferris wheel and the 24 second shot clock.  This is one of the historic homes of the 20th century Arts and Crafts movement--world famous Stickley furniture is made in the area to this day. 

The Syracuse area is also known for its farms--dairy, produce, and livestock--which dot the picturesque landscape surrounding the city.  Sure you'll find a good share of Irish pubs, diners, and Italian restaurants but you can also get great Thai, Vietnamese, Mexican, and new American cuisine that sources fresh, local, and organic ingredients.

My day started off on the right foot with breakfast at the Lucky Moon Cafe in the burgeoning arts district that includes the Syracuse Stage theatre.  Lucky Moon has been open just a year and has quickly become the place for delicious omlettes, sandwiches, and soups as well as poetry slams and music in the evenings.  Located in the building that houses the Onondaga School of Massage and the luxurious Spa Zend day spa, Lucky Moon has quickly become a part of the happening Syracuse scene.  I knew I had a big day ahead so I sought the soothing vibe of a Lucky Moon breakfast to get me started. 

I was the lucky one today to have co-owner Roxanne herself prepare my omlette.  Two eggs, mushrooms, bacon and cheddar cheese with a side of tuscan toast and a cup of white jasmine tea.  I pulled up a seat, grabbed a copy of the latest Syracuse New Times while Roxanne got busy behind the counter.  A few minutes later I was in heaven--the omlette was perfectly prepared with bits of white cheddar oozing out of the sides and crispy bits of bacon studded throughout.  Well fed and with a plan for the day I headed out to explore the area.  But my tab wasn't going to slow me down.  That omlette with toast and tea only came to about $7.00 leaving my pockets as full as my tummy.

With all of its urban charms, Syracuse is also considered the eastern anchor of the Finger Lakes Wine country.  The Finger Lakes are made up of 11 lakes that stretch vertically down the center of New York State like long fingers.  Renown for their beauty this region is also home to the oldest wineries in New York.  Dr. Konstantin Frank and Bully Hill are the grandfathers of the wine revolution in New York but in recent years vineyards such as Silver Thread, Red Newt, Glenora, Bloomer Creek, Sheldrake Pointe, and Lamoreaux Landing to name a few are creating a wine and food scene that is drawing folks from all over.

One of the newest restaurants on the scene is at Elderberry Pond Farm--an organic farm that has been in operation for over twenty years.  Located in Auburn--near Skanealeles Lake,it provided a great trip to the country but was only thirty minutes away from downtown Syracuse.  The restaurant had is first summer season this year and the food has proven to be worthy of the hype.  The visit to Elderberry Pond Farm today fit in perfectly with my desire to eat locally--especially this month for the Eat Local Challenge.  And at Elderberry Pond you can practically walk to your food source.  Many of the vegetable fields and orchards are just across the road from the restaurant and the meat is organically raised just a few miles away in the adjacent town of Weedsport.

I'm not usually a big burger person these days but I couldn't resist the Angus burger with feta and roasted peppers that topped the Elderberry Pond seasonal menu.  This has to be the thickest and juciest burger I've ever had.  A cool cucumber salad was served on the side--just as fresh and flavorful as if it had been picked that day--because it probably had.  The restaurant also features an excellent wine list made up of wines from New York State, California, and Europe that reflects the owners expertise in pairing up food wines that delicious and often organic.  Plus, almost all of the wines they offer are sold by the glass--an excellent way to try something new without a huge investment.

   

How big is this burger?                                Hmm!  So. Good.

Pamalee Reeve, the pastry chef at Elderberry Pond Farm is quickly making a name for herself.  After I made her Raspberry Almond Tart from the Gourmet magazine article I knew I couldn't miss dessert.  I was rewarded with a luscious chocolate tart topped with freshly picked raspberries and drizzled with a raspberry puree--incredible.  I would come back here just for the dessert.

In additon to the restaurant, Elderberry Pond operates a small store where you can pick up their homemade jams, organic chickens, beet greens, and other fresh produce.  New York State cheeses and dairy products are also sold.

So how much did this trip to the country set me back--just over $17.00.  With tax and tip my grand total was $20.00.  That brought me to a total of $27.00 leaving me $13.00 for the rest of the day. 

One of the major centers of creativity, intellectual exploration and technological and environmental innovation has been Syracuse University and the State University of New York's School of Envrironmental Science and Forestry (SUNY-ESF).  A day in Syracuse wouldn't be complete without a visit to University Hill.  The SU campus is a great place to hang out whether or not you are a student.  The campus plays host to everyone from Gary Trudeau to Michael Moore to Soledad O'Brien to Snoop Doggy Dog.  There is always something going on.  This is also the place to come for one of the best views of the city--watching the sun set over downtown and Onondaga Lake is a breathtaking experience.  But all that walking has made me hungry--time to think about dinner.

With thirteen dollars in my pocket I wanted a good meal that wasn't going to do a number on my budget.  A few students who were back early for Orientation week led me in the right direction.  Alto Cinco was the call.  Alto Cinco is located about 15 minutes walk from the SU campus in what is affectionately called the Westcott Nation--the "Berkeley, CA of Syracuse".  So not only was I going to get great Mexican food--it was going to be healthy (even vegan if I wanted!) and affordable.

I walked into Alto Cinco and they were packed--as they are every night they're open.  Monday nights usually feature wine flights and on nice summer nights like tonight, tables and people spill out onto funky Westcott Street.  I found a spot in the restaurant and tried to settle on what to eat.  My problem was--everything looked good on the menu.  But there it was:  a catfish burrito with chiplote mayo, rice, and cheese.  Hmmm mmm.  And for just two dollars more I get a piece of the scrumptious jalepeno cornbread (I can never say no to cornbread) and a side salad.  But the joint was packed so I took my order to go.  At Alto Cinco the small touches mean alot.  All their cooking relies on great, fresh ingredients.  So I shouldn't have been surprised to find my little side salad filled with tasty things sliced radishes, cucumbers, scallions, and a variety of lettuces. 

The burrito, large enough to feed a small family, was a revelation.  Each bite yielded tastes of lightly fried catfish, spicy mayo, rice and a warmed flour tortilla.  I could only finish half of it--bonus, lunch for tomorrow!  But the cornbread, if you could find a crumb of this wonderfully moist and spicy slice you'd be lucky.  Did this feast cost me mucho dinero?  Not a chance. With tax and tip I was only out $12.00.  Leaving me with a grand total of $39.00 for the day and one dollar in my pocket.  There's a great tip:  when you're visiting a college town, ask the students.  They'll always have the scoop on good food, cheap.  Not content to leave without something sweet to remember my visit, I spied some amazing looking chocolate chip cookies by the register.  So I grabbed a cookie and took a walk down the tree-lined streets of this urban neighborhood as the sun set on a fabulous day in Salt City--Syracuse, New York.

Thanks, Sam, for hosting this Dine and Dish #4 and giving me the chance to show off my new home town.  But Rachel Ray can have her job back, I'm all "perky-ed" out.

Run! Don't Walk--Make your Reservations!

I'm almost overwhelmed with joy.  There are two dinners coming up in the Syracuse area that present opportunities to eat locally sourced food, support our organic and sustainable food producers, And taste some of the best cooking in our area.  So here are the details--call in your reservations NOW if you haven't already done so because spaces are filling up QUICKLY.

The always wonderful BC Restaurant is hosting a dinner (the first one sold out) that features the best of our local produce on Tuesday, August 30 at 6:30.  Folks, we're talking about a five or six course meal for $40.00 per person (that includes a fish and meat course and dessert!).  And you know the food is going to be stellar--Bill Collins never disappoints.  Call 315-701-0636 to reserve your spot.  More good news:  if this seating sells out, they will offer another dinner on Wednesday, August 31st. 

If you missed the Slow Food Dinner at Windhaven Farm last month, here's your second chance.  The Central Leather Stocking Convivium of Slow Food USA is hosting a dinner featuring local producers at the Craftsman House Restaurant in Fayetteville on Friday, September 16 at 6:00 pm.  This tasting menu, prepared by chef David Teig, will also feature New York State wines and discussion will follow.  The cost will be between $60.00 and $65.00.  Call the Craftsman House directly to make your reservation:  315-637-9999.  Check out the Green Rabbit Farm website (Suzanne Slomin convenes the CLS Convivium) for more details by clicking here.

My Place--BC Restaurant

   

One of the essential ingredients I need to be really at home in a city or town is the feeling that I have a place.  Cue "Cheers" theme song:  you know, the kind of place where everybody knows your name.  It is the place where I feel at home when I walk through the door.  When I lived in Berkeley, CA, the Cheeseboard, where I went nearly every morning for a scone and a cup of coffee, was my place.  In Syracuse the Lucky Moon Cafe, on East Genesee Street, has become my place.  I'm frequently there for breakfast--or just to hang out when I need a break.

Lunch and dinner are a different story.  From the moment I discovered it last summer BC Restaurant  on Fayette Street in Armory Square has been MY PLACE.  Valentines Day, birthday, entertaining out of town guests, or because I just feel like it, are all reasons to get to BC.  With its fresh, mostly locally sourced food, inventive (for Syracuse) menu, and consistently great food and service BC has become a second home of sorts.  After living in Berkeley where we often walked to Chez Panisse for lunch or dinner and frequented such wonderful places as Oliveto  in Oakland, Cafe Rouge in Berkeley, and Absinthe and Citizen Cake  in San Francisco, my husband and I grew accustomed to really great food.  Thank God for the folks at BC--they make it possible for us to really enjoy Syracuse.

So today, reveling in my last few days of vacation, I took myself to lunch at BC.  Actually, I go to BC for lunch often--though dinner is more of a treat, lunch is quite affordable.  But make no mistake, after a full morning of hard work in the garden, I totally splurged on a simple but dedcadent meal.

It is said that you can tell the greatness of a restaurant by its simplest dishes.  So without needing to see the menu (which Sean, my waiter, correctly surmised I had commited to memory) I ordered the grilled cheese sandwich.  You can tell by the photo how delicous it was--grilled Tuscan bread with layers of sharp cheddar cheese and fresh, local tomatoes (from Tierra Farm outside Skaneateles) and country-style mustard.  The greens were perfectly dressed in a light viniagrette--the perfect accompaniament. 

As if that weren't rich enough--I asked for creme brulee for dessert (the Eat Local Challenge will be easy today 'cause I'm not eating much else for the rest of the day).  Creme Brulee tends to be one of those overdone desserts that appears on the menu of "upscale" restaurants.  I'm always surprised at how easy it is to get it a bit wrong.  Remember, the greatness of a restaurant....  This creme brulee was just right--creamy but not cloying with a sugar crust that cracked like fine glass under my spoon. I savored each and every bite.  And what price, this decadence?  My food bill was just over $12.00.  And you know how it goes...the experience of a fabulous meal in a place that feels like home--Priceless.

BC.  My place.  Should be yours too.

Another kind of peach

I've mentioned before that this year is the first time I've ever had a real garden.  I've grown spinach from seed on my balcony in years past, but this year with a patch of land to work, I really went at it.  I've always wanted to grow tomatoes but never lived in an apartment where there would be enough sunlight to produce any real fruit.  Well.  Now, I live in a wonderfully sunny spot any tomato would be supremely happy to call home. 

When I went to the NOFA-NY conference last January I could hardly imagine what a garden might look like in mid-August.  But that didn't stop me from saying yes to any offer of free seeds that were being given out.  One of these free seed packets were for an heirloom tomato called "Garden Peach Tomato".  I planted these seeds (along with a whole bunch of kale, broccoli, sage, and parsley) on Easter Sunday afteroon--March 27.  Every day I spritzed them, rotated them to get the best light, and coddled them into transplants strong enough to make it out there in the world.

Now I must confess that up until recently, I wasn't exactly sure what kind of tomatoes these would be.  I lost track of their labels and had planted a couple of varieties.  The really strong ones got transfered into the huge planters I placed in the direct path of all-day sunshine.  As it turns out, I planted two pots of Peach Tomatoes.  I ate my first one today.

I'm not exactly sure why these are called Peach Tomatoes.  I know they are an heirloom variety from the late 19th century.  Their color is a deep yellow and their skins are slightly fuzzy--that could be it.  But I suspect that it is the amazing sweetness of these tomatoes that brought to mind peaches at the peak of ripeness.  I simply sliced one up and sprinkled on a touch of sea salt.  Yummm-ME!

Local Peach Epiphany

It was some three years ago that I had my first Frog Hollow Farm peach--those revered globes of sweetness that are the darlings of Bay Area farmer's markets at this time of year.  It was the first time that I had ever had a peach that I had to eat over the sink.  It was incredible.  So incredible that when I brought some to my office staff meeting and passed them around, it changed the whole tenor of the meeting.  A few days later, one of the Vice Presidents closed the office and we all went peach picking.  Staff morale when up greatly.  Great peaches gave us a better work environment and bounty of peach dishes--peach mini tarts, peach ice cream, peach cobbler, and the simplicity of a peach in the hand.

When we moved to Syracuse I knew those days would be over.  I spent all last summer looking for good peaches--NOT from California.  I'd learned that when you pick peaches before they've fully ripened (they get all their sugar while on the tree) and ship them to ripen en route, you may get a soft peach, but you won't get a sweet peach.  And, I'm sorry, if isn't sweet, what's the point? 

Despite what marketers would have you believe, GREAT peaches can be had in the northeast.  A colleague told me recently of her grandmother's six peach trees that grew in her backyard--in East Syraucse!  I could hardly stand another summer without peaches so I went looking.

Now, my good friend Stephanie has also been looking for peaches.  She lives in Boston and found people giving her odd looks when she asked where she might find a peach pie.  Steph is from Pennsylvania.  She grew up on great peaches too.  And she misses them.  I spoke to Steph on my cell phone as I drove to Ithaca on Saturday to pick up chickens, basil, and....peaches.  From Pennsylvania.  Just barely outside of my 100 mile Eat Local Challenge radius. 

I knew these peaches were good when I passed one to my husband and he went running to the sink.  They were sweet, juicy, and full of the flavor you'd expect a peach to have this time of year.  I know it sounds silly, but living in Syracuse just became that much more lovely.  Leaves are already falling, temps are dropping, autumn is coming, but hey, we've got great peaches.

I went to work quickly yesterday peeling, poaching, and slicing most of a peck of peaches.  I stored some in their own syrup a la Elise's nectarines (Thanks Elise--it was SO easy, and your 2 1/2 pounds per quart was spot on.)  Other peaches are going into some great mini peach tarts that I discovered a few years ago from the Martha Stewart website.  The rest are for snacking. 

And Steph--these photos are for you.  As soon as I can get to Boston, I'll bring some up.

                                   

Freshly peeled peaches                           Peaches and ice cream

You CAN go home again

I'm back after a wonderful few days in New York City--my hometown.  Things have changed a bit since I last lived there full time--some nine years ago.  But the food just keeps getting better.  This week I was treated to amazing meals--some home-cooked (from local ingredients, Yay--Eat Local Challenge) and others were from some wonderful restaurants and cafes.  Here's a pictorial essay of a few meals I really enjoyed:

A delicious Pizza Puttanesca shared with my Mom as we hunted for Eileen Fisher sales.

A tasting of Channing Daughters wines at Vintage New York (they only sell NY wines).  I took home a bottle of the Cuvee Tropical Chardonnay and the much coveted Tocai Fruilano.  Woo hoo!

Grilled Calamari at Nam--a fabulous Vietnamese restaurant that was written up in the latest Bon Appetit magazine.  Bonus:  Mayor Michael Bloomberg dined a few tables away.