The Central Leatherstocking Convivium held a Slow Food Wine dinner at the Craftsman House Restaurant on Friday and in these hectic days it was just what I needed. This event had a totally different vibe than the Slow Food dinner at Windhaven Farm in July. The menu had actually been published in the Syracuse New Times (without any mention of Slow Food) so the dinner provided an opportunity for those who knew little about Slow Food USA to learn more while for many others it was an opportunity for a reunion.
Just a few comments before I talk about the food: Overall, the meal was better than I thought it might. It wasn't that I had low expectations, it just seems that the Craftsman House can be a bit inconsistent--just days earlier a friend had a meal there that she couldn't--wouldn't-- finish. My previous visit was fine but I was looking for an experience that would turn me into a regular repeat visitor. In general I thought the food was better than the wine. I was hoping for some spectacular wine pairings but in the opening announcements we were informed of the difficulty of finding a good New York red wine (lots of great choices for whites, we were told, but reds had a long way to go). A little asking revealed that the restaurant was limited by what was offered through its distributor. Though I'm not a wine or culinary professional--and so much of this is subjective anyway--I felt it was a missed opportunity not to be able to pair a bottle of Silver Thread Vineyard's Blackbird or one of the Channing Daughters reds.
Highlights:
Asparagus wrapped w/beef Travis and Joanne from the Co-op and Theresa, a
cappacio culinary professional
*the feelings of great anticipation and celebration that always seem to pervade Slow Food meals.
*Suzanne Slomin's impassioned plea for folks to understand the true cost of food. She noted that organic food is not overpriced particularly when viewed against the reality of high healthcare costs, environmental damage, and diminished food taste and quality that are part of conventionally grown, industrial agriculture-produced food.
*Sharing the dining table with a mix of farmers, food co-op staff, a personal chef, and other lovers of good food.
*The Food:
Grilled Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Sweet and Sour Crab Apple Compote
We really didn't need a conversation starter at our table but the Amuse Bouche got us going. Foie Gras will always get people talking and this preparation was delicious--the wine pairing of a 2003 Dr. Frank Konstantin Semi-Dry Riesling worked really well. We reviewed the long-debated pros and cons of producing foie gras as we joyfully chowed down on this first course. The contrast between the compote, the toasted raisin bread produced by Green Rabbit Farm and the Riesling set the bar high for the dishes to come. One person at our table admitted that this was the first time he'd ever had an organ meat--what an introduction!
Pan Roasted Long Island Bluefish with Heirloom Tomato and Rosemary
I was a little surprised by the asparagus (not what I'd usually eat in September) but this was a fantastic dish. The tomato reduction was the perfect foil for the delicately flavored bluefish. This was paired with a 2003 Wagner Vineyards Gewurztraminer which I didn't like so much. The Gewurztraminer had a little too much going on and it seemed to overwhelm the fish so I ended up sipping more of the Riesling.
Baked Great Lakes Ivory Salmon with Roasted Corn Crepe and Summer Chilis
As much salmon as I've eaten over the years I'd never come across, much less eaten, ivory salmon. One diner described it as a salmon that doesn't like shrimp (its the carotene in the shrimp that turn salmon pink). But this white-fleshed fish (common to souteast Alaska and Canada) "is also genetically predisposed with an extra enzyme to process that carotene rather than collect it in their flesh." (Stu Stein, The Peerless Restaurant, Oregon) So this was another mild fish--milder in taste than the more common Pacific Northwest wild salmon. The roasted corn tucked in and around the crepe was crunchy, sweet, and spicy. The 2001 Standing Stone Reserve Chardonnay was a nice match.
Kingbird Farms Organic Peking Duck with Roasted Carrots and Cilantro
After two mild fish dishes this was a wake-up call of flavor. Some questioned whether it was the saltiness of the dish that accounted for it being the table favorite. I just know that the cilantro, tender duck and Asian spices made for a spectacular dish. The 2002 Lamoreaux Landing Merlot that was paired with it had just enough body and fruit to stand up to the complex and strong flavors of the duck. I sopped up all the juices with some of Green Rabbit Farms crusty bread--the cleanest plate of the night.
Grilled Wild Sky Ranch Bison Loin with Adirondack Blue Potato and Harvest Leek Thyme Sauce
I wanted to like this dish, I really did. I generally like game meats but as much as I loved the sauce, I couldn't get behind the meat. It had an odd flavor to me with an aftertaste that I didn't favor. One tablemate wasn't sure his bison was fully cooked--not that it was rare, part of it was raw. So I only took a few bites of this dish and left the rest. The 2000 Pindar Pythagoras Meritage was lovely, though--and yummy enough to drink on its own.
Roasted New York State Apple and Lavender Strudel with Anise Creme Anglaise
This was a lovely dish with which to end the evening. The strudel was a nice sophisticated turn on the traditional homey version--the anise scented creme Anglaise added an elegant touch. Maybe it was the late hour (by now we'd been eating for four hours) but I found no trouble going back and forth between sipping the 2002 Wagner's Late Harvest Vignoles and a cup of Paul de Lima decaf while I finished off dessert.
The pushback from the table was hard for us all. It was a wonderful way to celebrate some of the best foods of the region and to do what Slow Food does best--gather new friends and old for a night of pleasure around the table.
Regional producers featured at this dinner included:
Windhaven Farm, Sauquoit, NY--producers of sheeps milk yogurt and cheeses, pasture-raised meat, free range eggs. 315-839-7105
Northland Sheep Dairy, Freetown Corners, NY--producers of sheeps milk blue cheese, meat, yarn, sheepskins and apple cider. [email protected]
Kingbird Farm, Berkshire, NY--producers of certified organic duck, chicken, turke, pork, eggs, herbs, produce, and seasonally raised grass-fed beef. www.kingbirdfarm.com
Wild Sky Bison Ranch, Utica, NY. 315-797-4814
Grindstone Farm, Pulaski, NY--organic produce and berries, also Syracuse area CSA. www.grindstonefarm.com
Northstar Orchards, Westmoreland, NY--apples, berries, and full service farm store. 315-853-1024
Green Rabbit Farm, Madison, NY--"noncertified" organic produce and berries, bread, free range eggs. www.greenrabbitfarm.com
Growing Wild, Fenner, NY--fresh cut and dried flowers and native perennials. 315-684-9846
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