The buzz has been building over the past few weeks about Circa, a new restaurant in Cazenovia. In fact, after the Post-Standard ran the piece about this blog I began to receive emails from folks suggesting I check it out. Why? It isn't every day when a restaurant dedicated to New American cuisine (think Alice Waters and Chez Panisse-style cuisine) opens in Central New York. That's all I needed to know. We didn't need a reason, but with our third anniversary looming, Harrison and I made reservations and had the pleasure of dining there on Wednesday.
We arrived at about 7:40 in the evening and walked out of the night into a brightly lit yet warm space that was open and airy--and offered a view into the kitchen--love that! When we sat down and eyed the menu we both breathed a sigh of "ah--now this is what we're talking about". That is, a seasonal menu inspired by local ingredients.
Now for those of you in other parts of the country--this may seem like old hat. But for these parts, there aren't many restaurants commited to relying on local growers and producers and using their products at their peak of freshness. So to look at a menu to see carrot bisque (with sage creme fraiche) and a local cheese plate with local apples, honey, walnuts and bread, and butternut gnocchi with roasted oyster mushrooms and rosemary riccotta made us giddy. Roasted free range chicken and lamb rib chops also have a spot. Oh, and then there is the now infamous $10.00 hamburger.
But the fact that the menu choices sounded mouth-wateringly delicious was only half of the excitement. There was something about knowing each and every one of the purveyors and farmers where Chef Alicyn Hart sources her food that simultaneously put me at ease and heightened my sense of anticipation to see what she would do this great food. Because honestly--to make great food you really do have to start out with great ingredients. And here's where I fear that I slip into a bit of food snobbery so please pardon me-- but when I go out to eat, and when good money is spent in the process, I don't want to think that the food I'm getting is of lesser quality than I would serve in my own home.
This is where we Central New Yorkers are lucky--we can actually meet the folks who produce the food that Alicyn serves up--her chickens and beef come from Wendy Gornick who sells at the Regional Market and from Cobblestone Valley. Some of her cheeses come from Heamour Farms and veggies are grown and bread is baked by Suzanne Slomin of Green Rabbit Farm. These are some of the finest foods to be found ANYWHERE and while some of our locally produced food finds it way to the big Greenmarket on Union Square in Manhattan--you and I can get it right here! I found myself thinking that I don't have to dream about getting down to the Union Square Cafe or one of the many seasonal restaurants in the Berkshires or Portland, Oregon (or Maine for that matter). I can eat at Circa.
All that being said, we ordered nothing from the menu. The specials were too enticing. We started with a Tuscan flatbread layered with tomato sauce, olives, shavings of Parmesan cheese, pine nuts, and the most beautiful white anchovies. I'd never had white anchovies before--I'd heard about them but never encountered them on a menu. And there they were--I have to admit that before taking the final bite I simply stared at this beautiful assemblage of flavors with the bluish-white anchovy glistening on top--it was a piece of art--but I had to eat it because it tasted soooo good.
For a main course we both had the braised short ribs. These were falling off the bone tender. They were served atop a bed of Dinosaur Kale that had been sauteed with shallots. These were so good even Harrison ate them up--and he doesn't really do vegetables. He loved them! And then there was the fried polenta. Think buttery, cheesey triangles that are crispy on the outside and when the fork cuts into them, the creamiest polenta oozes out to great effect.
For dessert Harrison had the chocolate tart--very, very chocolately he said--and I had the ginger bread pudding topped with chocolate ganache. It was pretty good, though not uniformly warmed up--which I think really brings out the yummy factor in something like bread pudding.
To make room for dessert, I asked for half my dinner to be boxed up. I was presented with a chinese take out box with my food inside--okay, pretty standard. But here's the nice touch that Circa added--they actually wrote the restaurant name and the date on the carton so I'll remember when I got it. (Like it's going to last in my fridge past day 3--not likely!)
And forget all that stuff about the $10 hamburger, we felt that the food was a BARGAIN. The level of execution and the quality of the food were top notch and frankly, we've spent more for much less in many other places. Perhaps it is something about cutting out all the "middlemen" that makes the prices so reasonable. Even on our tight budget, we can imagine fitting Circa in.
Overall, this is a place I can't wait to return to. Chef Alicyn and her partner Eric, have done an incredible job bringing a dining experience to our area that is long overdue. Alicyn brings her years of experience in the food world--working in kitchens from New England to Mexico to Alaska to Colorado--where she met the Bay Area trained Alice Water's disciple who inspired her. Alicyn also brings experience teaching culinary classes in a local BOCES which makes me wonder whether that might not be a future piece of the Circa repertoire--one can dream.
Finally, for those in Syracuse and points west, a note about the location:
When we told people we were driving out to Cazenovia for dinner we were met with exclamations about how far it is. Wow--I guess that time in the Bay Area has really skewed our perception of distance. Cazenovia doesn't seem all that far from Syracuse to me (I mean, it took as much time to get there as it does to go from Berkeley to Haight Ashbury in San Francisco without traffic). As we drove home I found myself making excuses to go back to Cazenovia just to eat at Circa. Don't worry about the drive--just get there.
Circa Restaurant, 76 Albany Street (at Mill), Cazenovia, New York, 315-655-8768
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