Cookin' in the 'Cuse

The year of water

Just a quick post to assure folks who have been tracking the flood stories here in Central New York that we in Syracuse are okay.  It has been exceptionally wet and rainy here but no flooding.  Thank you for your notes of concern--it means so much.

It has been difficult, though, to see the images of flooding in places like Sidney, Binghamton, Johnson City and Endicott.  Nine years ago, in my first position after seminary, I lived in Johnson City and served a church in Endicott.  I still have many friends there and the Southern Tier, as it is called, will always have a special place in my  heart.

There are some photos of the situation (from a few days ago) posted on a MySpace site (thanks NYCO for the lead). 

I know that there are years when the weather does unexpected things--the El Nino years in California in the late 1990s come to mind.  But I'm really beginning to wonder about the string of rains and floods that seem to be hitting nearly every part of our country this year.  The excessive rains in the Bay Area this winter, the flooding along the Massachusetts Cape several weeks ago, and now this. 

Water, food, sustainability, the environment--it is all related.  I think I'll spend the rest of my lifetime trying to figure out how to live in a way that honors and respects all four.

Garden Update

When I left for Columbus, Ohio over two weeks ago I went with some fear and trembling.  No, I wasn't nervous about all the hard work and conversation I would be engaging in for twelve days--I wasn't worried about our garden.

The day before I left, on June 10, I discovered the hated cabbage beetle in my collard greens--you could have heard my screams two blocks over--mostly over the shock of finding these huge, perfectly camouflaged "things" in my food.  I was convinced that when I returned I would find my whole patch of collards and Swiss chard chewed to bits--you can actually see a bit of their damage if you look closely.  So I instructed my husband to check carefully--VERY carefully--I admonished him.  We could not lose the collard greens.  Several calls over the course of my trip revealed that either Harrison was unable to detect these heartless creatures, or that they had indeed gone away--somehow.

Did I fret for nearly two weeks--oh, fret would be the perfect word for it.

When I arrived back home last Thursday, though, I was delighted to see that not only had the collards not been eaten from the inside out--they were thriving and doing well--as was the the rest of the garden.  Gotta give it up for my husband--he does know how to tend a garden.  Well, except for the weeding.  It will take me the rest of the summer to catch up with the weeding.  But in the meantime, the chard and collards are ready to eat, I've got several tomatoes on the vine, and the garlic will come out sometime next month.  The garlic scapes have already been harvested and I can't wait to cook them up. 

I guess we will indeed have food from the garden this year.

Eating Through Columbus Part I

Clockwise from left:  veal ravioli from the Burgandy Room Wine and Tapas Restaurant, pork chops and asparagus from the Hyde Park Prime Steak House, braised pork shank from Barcelona, and halibut from Martini's Italian Bistro.  Click any photo to enlarge.

Usually, the idea of eating out nearly every meal for 12 days straight quickly loses its appeal but I have to admit that it is a condition I'd gladly submit to if I'm ever back in Columbus, Ohio.  That's right--I said it.  Columbus, Ohio has a food scene going on that makes me jealous.  And after nearly two weeks of living at the Greater Columbus Convention Center near the ever so fabulous Short North neighborhood, I feel as I barely got started.

Columbus natives told me that Ohio is the place where food gets tested out to see if it will play in, say, Syracuse--or the rest of the country.  If this is true then I've got some complaints because the style, presentation and quality of food are not making it very far.  Except for the Bay Area, I've yet to discover a city where nearly every single restaurant displayed the creativity, attention to detail, and delicious standard that I found in Columbus.  Now, granted, without a car my dining options were confined to the Short North, downtown, and German Village neighborhoods--plus whatever area of town the Refectory is located in but the odds seemed pretty good that good food could be found in any part of town.

To top it all off, we were just a block away from the North Market--a great food emporium offering a variety of ethnic food for a quick lunch or wonderful chocloates, ice cream, and other goodies for an afternoon pick-me-up.  I'll post about that soon. 

Where am I?

I know, I know, what's up with the blog?  I've not fallen off the face of the earth.  I'm in Columbus, Ohio for day 7 of my 11 day stay for the trienniel General Convention of the Episcopal Church.  Days that begin at 6:00 am (when I get out the door) and end at 1:00 am have greatly diminished my ability to blog.

But that doesn't mean I haven't eaten!  Thanks to the Restaurant Widow I've dined mightily well on her recommendations.  I promise photos and details will be uploaded later today and tomorrow because the very fine meals I've enjoyed at the Refectory, Barcelona, Martini's and the North Market are highlights you gotta know about. 

When I get back to the 'Cuse late next week the Finger Lakes blogging will return but for now, hang with me in Ohio.

The NY Wine and Culinary Center--Get There!

Finally.  Finally New York has a temple to our food, wine and agriculture that is worthy of the products, farmers, and chefs it celebrates.  The New York Wine and Culinary Center opens in Canandaigua today and really, there is nothing else to say but, get there!

This much anticipated opening has been worth the wait.  Every detail from the architectural design of the Center to its programming has been well thought out and executed.  Constellation Brands, Wegmans, and the Rochester Institute of Technology (the major investors) should feel that they have invested wisely because everything is top notch.

But you won't want to get there just to look at a nice building.  No--you want to get there to take your seat in the Kithen Theatre as you watch celebrity chefs like Mollie Katzen (of Moosewood and the Enchanted Broccoli Forest fame) whip up dishes using New York's finest ingredients.

You want to get there to get yourself behind one of the gleaming, new Viking ranges in order to try your hand at cooking a free-range chicken and all the wonderful veggies our area produces.

You want to get there to taste those New York wines everyone is raving about and those wines that you've always wanted to try but thought the drive from Rochester to the East End of Long Island too far.  All 212 of New York's wineries will be represented in the Tasting Room and you can purchase wine too.  What you want a case--you can't buy it at the Wine and Culinary Center but the staff will point you to the kiosk where you can place your order with the winery and have it shipped to you at home.

You want to get there because if you are hungry and wine isn't your thing--you can go upstairs to the Tasting Room and enjoy some great food along with one of New York's finest brews.  Oh, and enjoy it out on the deck with a view of the lake, why don't you?

You want to get there because you can bring the kids too.  That's right, grape juice flights and kiddie cooking classes are on offer.

You want to get there because it's only an hour and ten minutes away from downtown Syracuse making all this goodness really close for those of us in the Central New York area.  Indeed, the central location, proximity to the NYS Thruway and the fact that 94 of the state's 212 wineries are here in the Finger Lakes area is why the center is up here and not on Union Square in Manhattan or on the Hudson River.  So you want to get there because it is a great thing to support and because you CAN.

The Grand Opening is this weekend but if you're like me and you can't make it, here is a  tiny sampling of some things you'll want to call right now for to make a reservation:

What's New in Finger Lakes Wineries and Restaurants, June 29
Straight from the Farm Series:  Succulent Organic Chicken with Fred Forsburg of Honeyhill Farms in the Hands-on-Kitchen, July 1
Guest Chef Series in the Hands-on-Kitchen:  Debra Whiting of Red Newt Winery & Bistro, July 17
Finger Lakes Farmstead Cheeses in the Educational Theatre:  July 21
Food & Wine, Wine & Food in the Educational Theatre:  Morten and Lisa Halgren of Ravines Winery, August 1
Personal Wine Making with Jan Klapetszky, August 20 and August 27

New York Wine and Culinary Center, 800  South Main Street, Canandaigua, NY 14424, 585-394-7070
www.nywcc.com

Do You Wagyu?

No, I'm not talking about the latest dance or interior design philosophy.  This is a food blog after all.  I'm talking beef.

With the exception of the occasional dish of oxtails, snack of breakfast cookies or a burger, I'm not a big red meat eater.  But every now and again I'll eat something that makes me wonder how I could have ever walked away from it for nearly ten years.  Wagyu beef is it.

What is Wagyu?  The Meadows Farm website says this:

The "Wagyu beef" designation can legally be applied to the meat from any cattle of the Wagyu breed; it's a genetic thing, not a place appellation or a reference to how the cattle were raised and fed. This breed is genetically predisposed to intense marbling, and produces a higher percentage of oleaginous, unsaturated fat than any other breed of cattle known in the world.

Yeah, but it is DELICIOUS.

As you might imagine, I'm very particular about what red meat I do eat and this hormone and antibiotic free, pasture grazing, organic feeding, LOCALLY raised beef has spoiled for me anything else.  There's no need to go west to the ranges of Colorado to get your beef.  No, we can head east to Cazenovia where the folks at Meadows Farm LLC are taking seriously the art and craft of cattle raising.

This is grass-fed beef that has marbling and immense flavor.  I remember Brian Shore (now of Arad Evans Inn) telling me that he wouldn't serve grass-fed beef because, basically, it didn't have enough fat to create that prized marbling effect that Americans have come to identify with quality steak.  And let's face it, marbling does make it taste better  But anyone who produces grass-fed beef will tell you that if you expect to cook it the conventional way you won't be happy.  Special cookbooks have come out to help you avoid the travesty of overcooking a perfectly good steak.

The Meadows Farm website has some good advice on this too. But I'll tell you, all I did to get this incredible burger was to grill it up (medium-well) on a well-seasoned cast iron pan, top it with aged cheddar and lettuces pulled from the garden (with some fabulous Hudson Valley garlic ketchup) and I was too happy.

Today's NY Times Business section had two articles on natural beef and the pressure to produce it out west (reg. req.) and issue of just what "natural beef" really  means.  But just like the fine dairy, poultry, and produce that we can here in Central New York, we don't have to look to the western cattle ranches some 2000 miles away, we have some great producers right in our area.  A trip to the Regional Market, the Ithaca Farmers' Market or the food co-op in your area will get you all set up.  And if we have questions about what our producers means by "natural" we can ask them.  Does it cost more than conventional?  Yeah.  But for me, my wallet and my desire to balance the intense impact cattle raising (even organic) has on the environment, means that this food really is the occasional splurge and treat but is it ever worth it.

The White Dove Tea Room--Tea and So Much More

Does the Salt City have a cafe scene?  I dare say it does.  This post is part of a series on my adventures into Cafe Society--Syracuse style.

Apparently, I need to take more breaks for formal tea.  I mean, a cup of Jamine tea to start the day and a cup of Lapsong Souchang to end it are fine but there's nothing like sitting down to the whole deal with scones, cucumber finger sandwiches and chocolate covered strawberries.  The White Dove Tea Room is a place I've visited before but today I thought, "I've really got to make this a habit." 

The White Dove is located in Syracuse's Little Italy on North Salina Street.  It is a small and intimate tea room--the best kind, really--just about 24 seats.  The owner, Suzanne, breezes around the room and greets folks like their family.  I got the sense that this place is about more than the tea--its about community, great food and lots of love. 

Our tea today was not quite a formal tea--which is the full linen, silver, and more food than you can imagine.  We just had the more food deal.  Working from the bottom up our feast included open face cucumber finger sandwiches, open face egg salad on wheat bread--was that a smoky Spanish paprika that gave it a little kick?  Light as air scones, still warm from the oven, were served with raspberry jam and Devonshire clotted cream.  Grapes and chocolate-covered strawberries donned the top tier and then there was still a dessert plate!  Let's just say goodie bags were taken home.

Ah, but this is a tea room so let's talk tea, shall we?  Actually, there isn't much to say, I had a very nice Palm Court tea--a black leaf tea that took well to cream and sugar.  One of the nice touches about White Dove is that instead of leaving the pot on the table to over steep and, perhaps, grow cold, a server very attentively took to refreshing our cups with hot, fresh tea before our cups ever emptied.  Need another reason to love them?  They pour Harney and Sons tea! 

At $20.00 per person for the Formal tea this is certainly an indulgence but a worthy one.  In fact, I simply made this my main meal of the day--eating a good late breakfast and a light, late dinner.  After eating all those wonderful treats I didn't even look at the dessert display--can you believe it?  The point is, there is no need to wait for a Formal tea to go to White Dove.  You can go for a cup of tea and a slice of cake and enjoy the good vibes.  But if you are really hungry....

Then you've got to check out their new monthly seven-course dinners.  Once a month they take reservations for a set menu that features local ingredients and inspired cooking.  The June dinner features Flowered Prawn bathed in Miso, Roasted Pork Chop with Cornmeal Pancakes and Granny Smith Apple Butter, Whipped Brie and Slow Roasted Red and Yellow Beets, and Port Poached Pear Salad.  The bad news:  The June 7 dinner is sold out.  The Good news:  if you call White Dove and get on their email list they will email you the menu of the next dinner and you can reserve your spot early.  This feast costs $70 per person and is bring you own wine--a great chance to do your own pairings and drink what you really want.

So whether you want a nice afternoon of tea and scones or an evening of fine dining the White Dove Tea Room is the place to be.

The White Dove Tea Room, 745 North Salina Street, Syracuse, NY 13208, 315-474-1126.  www.thewhitedovetearoom.com

It's Sam's Birthday But We Got the Presents

From left, sitting:  Luisa, Bakerina, Sam, Fred, Ann and Meg; Standing:  Me, Adam, and Craig.

No one can ever say that Sam doesn't know how to throw a party.  Sam--of Becks and Posh--and her beloved Fred came to NYC to celebrate her birthday, which is today, and the NY food blogging community got to benefit.

The benefit was the coming together.  I won't ask why it took a world famous food blogger from San Francisco to come and visit to bring us all together.  I'm just hoping it won't be our last.  I will admit to being a bit star struck as I shared a table with folks like Adam, the Amateur Gourmet and Luisa of Wednesday Chef and blog pioneer, Meg of Megnut.  These are folks with serious blog hits and book deals.  But you know what?  Like Sam our host, they are just cool peeps. 

The other cool thing was meeting folks newer to the food blog world.  I'm looking forward to keeping up with A Chicken in Every Granny Cart and the Chocolate Lady at אין מױל ארײן.  We had a chance to hear how some of the veterans got started and traded tips on everything from blog design to recipes to how to get our spouses to do the dishes. 

If that wasn't enough, there were the terrific chocolate treats that Sam brought to the table.  Little bites of San Francisco like the chocolate covered dulce de leche biscuits by Destino that someone described as Girl Scout Cookies for adults--total yum. 

I hope we find another reason to come together soon.  There is a bit more humanity behind the internet for me now which, I hope, would be part of the point of this technology.  The virtual bringing people together is made more powerful by the real thing.

Thanks Sam and Happy Birthday!

Eating Your Way Through Summer--Calendar Updates

June and July are packed with all sorts of wonderful food events in our area.  You know how it goes, don't let the summer speed by without marking your calendars now for these fun events.

• June 2 and 3--Taste of Syracuse.  This two day event turns downtown Syracuse into one big buffet with food and wine from area restaurants and wineries.  The party starts at 11:00 today and runs through 11:00 pm tomorrow.  Check out their website for more information by clicking here.
• June 5--BC Restaurant in Armory Square begins serving dinner on Monday nights through the summer.  They're calling it:  bc Bistro Nights and the menu will change each week with the exception of some signature favorites.  They'll also have smaller plates that will allow you to get a great meal at a lower price. 
• June 17--The New York Wine and Culinary Center opens in Canandaigua.  This long awaited center celebrating our food, wine and agriculture is just over an hour away--how lucky are we?  Special events, wine tastings, culinary classes and other educational offerings will help show the world--not to mention those of us in NY State--just how good we have it.
• July 1 and 2--Greenmarket pioneer and author Nina Planck will be in the area to sign and discuss her book, Real Food:  What to Eat and Why.  Nina formerly directed the NYC Greenmarkets and started the first farmers' markets in London, England.  She is opening two Real Food markets in NYC that will sell fresh farm products as well as prepared foods made from those foods.  The book signing will take place at the Colgate Bookstore in Hamilton on July 1--time to be announced.
• July 9--Screening of the movie, American Farm.  This Slow Food sponsored event (Central Leatherstocking Convivum) not only brings the film but its director James Spione, to the Hamilton Movie House at 4:00 pm.  This is a moving story about a family's passion for, and desire to save its New York farm.  Tickets are $6.00 for Slow Food members and $8.00 for non-members.  Check out the CLS Slow Food page to find out where to buy tickets.
• July 14-16--Finger Lakes Wine Festival in Watkins Glen.  If you don't have time to wind your way around all the Finger Lakes to taste and buy wine--come to this festival/outdoor tasting room where you can encounter most of our area wineries in one spot.  Some 500 wines will be on offer and if you stay over in Watkins Glen you won't have to worry about a designated driver.
• July 29--Little Lakes Food Festival on Hemlock Lake in Conesus.  Want to go all local?  This is it--local foods, local music, local artisans and crafters.  A dinner featuring all local ingredients follows the day-long festival.  Check out their website for more info.