Cookin' in the 'Cuse: Fork: Fresh and Seasonal in Philly

October 24, 2006

Fork: Fresh and Seasonal in Philly

I lived in Philadelphia to do an internship in the summer of 1993. This was "pre-Striped Bass" Philly, "pre-Food Scene Philly", this was "food is all about either cheesesteaks, White Dog Cafe or Le Bec-Fin" Philly. I ate exclusively from the Reading Terminal Market supplemented by milk purchased at my local Wawa. This was "pre-Fork Restaurant" Philly.

What happened? Well, probably alot but by 1997 when I came back for a conference, the convention center had been completed and Striped Bass was THE place and Fork was soon to open--Philadelphia had a bona fide food scene. Tonight, while on business in the City of Brotherly Love, I had the chance to dine at Fork and, oh my. I could live here.

Fork is all about the seasonal, local, fresh New American style and they have got it down. But in addition to the "standard" new American fare, they offer takes on Mexican cuisine as well--pan seared chili-spiced Mexican prawns with caramelized pearl onion and mango relish is one example. The excellent wine list is heavy on old world wine and Fork is known for its innovative cocktails.

Ellen Yin, one of the co-owners came to my table to talk about the places like Branch Creek Farm (Bucks County) and the other producers that supply their meat and produce. But this isn't just another restaurant latching on to a trend. Fork actually hosts Slow Food dinners, has supper club meetings, and is a vital part of the community.

There were some twenty of us sitting down for dinner in one of the private dining rooms and we all managed to be served in good time, with good pacing, correct orders and all the professionalism you'd expect of a restaurant of this caliber. Every now and then the room would fall to near silence as we tucked into our dishes. I'll look forward to returning when I can sample more from their menu and I hope to hit the Fork:etc. next door which sells food to go from breakast through late night (it's a four hour drive back home to the 'Cuse, after all). If you find yourself in Philly, check out Fork--just a few minutes walk from Independence Hall.

Crispy Duck Confit with Frisee, Bacon, Sekel Pears and Basil Vinaigrette--the sweet pears where a nice contrast to the tangy vinaigrette and succulent duck confit.

Grilled Chimichurri Marinated Hangar Steak with Sauteed Swiss Chard, Yucca Frites and Spicy Aioli--I shared my frites, and I ate and ate, and could not come close to finishing this delectable dish. Yucca is a root vegetable similiar to potatoes but with a sweetness much like sweet potatoes. This dish paired deliciously with a Simon Hackett "the Gatekeeper" 2003 Shiraz.

Espresso Cheese Cake with Shortbread Crust and Chocolate Sauce--okay, I did save enough roon to polish off this dessert--a very fine, creamy rendition of one of my favorite desserts.