Cookin' in the 'Cuse

Speaking of Michael Pollan...

Check out Michael Pollan's cover story piece in Sunday's Time's magazine on "The Age of Nutritionism".  Pollan tries to demystify the key to eating well by suggesting the simple yet incredibly complicated solution:  Eat food.  That is, food, which may or may not be that stuff that actually fills your supermarket shelves that is called "food".  Check out the article by clicking here.  Registration may be required:
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The Gospel According to Joel

Virginia chicken farmer and clean food advocate Joel Salatin kicked off this year's NOFA-NY (Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York) conference with a keynote speech that was part altar call and part rallying cry for everyone--especially farmers--to claim their Sacred Calling.  He spoke of Respect, Resilence, and Recompense as being part of the sacred call of organic farming.

Salatin is known to many as the man behind Polyface Farms in the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.  He is known well to fans of Michael Pollan who has written about him in magazines and who devoted nearly an entire chapter to the man and his method of poultry farming in the book, The Omnivore's Dilemma.  Here are some excepts from Salatin's nearly hour-long speech.

• Part of our sacred calling is to preserve respect for the food we grow.  GMO (genetially modified organisms) asks the question:  just because we can, should we?  Our worldview (of organic, clean food) creates a border for our cleverness.  How we respect the least of these affects how we treat the greatest of these.  We don't have to understand everything.
• We not only respect the plants and animals, we respect the eater and the consumer. We want ultimate health and not short term stock dividends.  The industrial system disrespects the microflora of our intestines. 
• We've eliminated the courtship with the dinner plate.  But as a culture we applaud ourselves that there are no humans involved in the food system.  It's like prostitution food--where is the courtship?  The dating?  The romance that leads to the intimate act of dining?
• We preserve respect for the farmer and the producer in raising food without the chemicals that lead to disease.
• We preserve forgiveness and resilence.  We preserve a farm family friendly work environment so we are not just alienating everyone. 
• We preserve resilence in the landscape.  The way we farm preserves a landscape that can take care of itself.
• We don't subscribe to the "Grow it faster, bigger, cheaper" paradigm.  Is it any wonder that we are looking like our food system and we have an obesity epidemic?
• Questions for the industrialists:  Is there any nutritional integrity?  Does that food actually give/transfer life?
• We preserve recompense for the farmer  Our country has a cheap policy--it is a race to the bottom floor.  Our call is to return the money to the rural landscape in order to fund the next generation of stewards.
• Our sacred calling is the preservation of a heritage food system.

The crowd of 400 that Salatin spoke to on Friday night swelled to over 600 the next day making this NOFA-NY's most successful winter conference ever.  This conference brings farmers, foodies, advocates, educators, and gardeners from across New York State and beyond, to the Liverpool Holiday Inn the last weekend in January each year.  Put it on your calendar for 2008!

The State of the Union is Delicious!

I don't care what Frank Bruni says--the venerable Union Square Cafe in New York City has still got it.  I've been in love with USC for ten years now (along with harboring a bit of a crush on owner, Danny Meyer).  True, it had been awhile since I'd last eaten there--around 2002--but I couldn't imagine a better place to go for a special occasion.  So when my Mom's (major) birthday was coming, I made a reservation and eagerly awaited the day when I could get back there.

But the very day before we were to dine there the January 10 edition of the food section harbored tons of praise on Danny Meyer's  Eleven Madison Park while relegating USC and Gramercy Tavern to near has been status as nice, respectable places to dine but not to be wowed.  And I may have detected just a little bit of snark, but I''m protective of USC.  Well I'll tell you, when we arrived for dinner the next night we enjoyed a meal and table service that was simply one of the finest I've experienced. 

And I'm not just saying that because of the extra special birthday touches my mother received with her meal.  And it wasn't just the gratutitous platter of creamy polenta with marscapone (topped with gorgonzola dulce and toasted walnuts) that our server brought us probably after overhearing how much I cook it at home.  Nor was it the gift plate of banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream.  No, it was just that the food was  beautifully and deliciously executed and we were made to feel as if we were the most important people in New York City. 

I'm not saying that Eleven Madison Park isn't spectacular--I've not been there in years.  But it can still be wonderful in the face of an equally wonderful experience at the Union Square Cafe. 

Now about those calarmari at the top of the post.  Our meal at USC started out with the most incredible calamari I've ever had--and I've had plenty.  But since my Mom's birthday dinner I've not been able to get rid of the craving for the tender (not at all rubbery), slightly, mellowy sweet, crisp, calamari we had that night.  So I opened up my copy of The Union Square Cafe Cookbook and sure enough there was the recipe--and the secret to USC's uniquely fabulous version. 

So I ran to Fins and Tails, picked up some calamari (thankfully, already cleaned) and then I got a box of graham cracker crumbs.  Let me tell, you, this was the easiest, quickest, most satisfyingly delicious calamari I've had since eating at USC.  This was my first time cooking calamari and I plan to add this recipe to my regular rotation.  Check it out--and the next time you plan a trip down to New York City, check out the Union Square Cafe--they've still got it--in spades!

Here are some photos from our dinner at USC.  Scroll down to the end for the recipe for the calamari and anchovy mayo.

Fried Calamari with Spicy Anchovy Mayonnaise (ate it so fast, almost forgot the photo)

Crispy Lemon-Pepper Duck with Pomegranate-Duck Jus, Carmalized onion-chestnut Farroto and Braised Tuscan Black Kale

Creamy Polenta with Marscapone, Toasted Walnuts and Crumbled Gorgonzola

Grilled Smoked Cedar River Shell Steak with Mashed Potatoes and Frizzled Leeks

Roasted Organic Chicken with Mustard-Cognac Sauce and Roasted Root Vegetables

Chocolate Truffle Cake with vanilla ice cream

Warm Semolina Cake with Candied Quince and Dulce de Leche Gelato (the cake was "melt in your mouth" perfection.

USC's Banana Tart with Honey-Vanilla Ice Cream and Macadamia Brittle

Fried Calamari with Spicy Anchovy Mayonnaise (as adapted from the Union Square Cafe Cookbook)

Anchovy Mayonnaise

• 1 large egg at room temperature
• 5 anchovy fillets
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon rough chopped parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon cayenne
• 3/4 cup light or mild olive oil

In a food processor, combine the egg, anchovies, lemon juice, parsley and cayenne and blend until smooth.  With the motor running, slowly add the oil to make a mayonnaise.  Transfer the sauce to a bowl and refrigerate, covered tightly, until ready to use.  Mayo will keep for about two days.

Fried Calamari

• 1 pound fresh, cleaned calamari
• 4 cups of light or mild olive oil or vegetable oil
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 cup graham cracker crumbs
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt

Cut the calamari into 1/4 inch rings.  If the tentacles are large, halve or quarter them lengthwise.  Refrigerate until reaady to use.

Pour the oil into a heavy-bottomed, straight-sided 3 quart saucepan, about 8 inches in diameter.  To prevent the oil from bubbling over when frying the calamari, the pan should be no nore than one third full.  Heat the oil to 360 degrees F on a deep-fat thermometer.  (To check the temp without a thermometer, drop a small of bread (crouton size) into the oil.  It should float to the surface immediately adn brown lightly in 45 seconds)

Combine the flour and graham cracker crumbs in a bowl.  Divide te calamari into two or three batches.  Toss each batch in the flour mixture to coat evenly.  Shake the calamari in a mesh strainer (a spider works great too) to shed excess coating.  Using tongs or a slotted spoon, gently lower each batch of calamari into the hot oil and fry until golden brown (about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes).  Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Sprinkle with salt.  The cooked calamari can be kept warm in an oven on low while you cook the remaining batches.  Check your oil temperature (360 degrees) and repeat with the remaining calamari.  Serve hot with the chilled anchovy mayonnaise.

I love foodie care packages

How cool is this?  A faithful Cookin' in the 'Cuse reader has taken pity on me.  What with my tomatoes with tire tracks and my deficiency in beer reviews, something had to be done.  So on the coldest, most wintery week of the season, I'm gifted with this fabulous box of summer goodness:  there are a couple of jars of diced tomatoes, a jar of salsa, and garllicky dill and butter and bread pickles.  And for good measure, an issue of Ale Street News to whet my appetite for good brew.

So thank you David!  Right now I'm still downing the juices but you've got me salivating for a juicy burger topped with bread and butter pickles and a cold glass of...yeah, I'll say it, beer!  Summer can't come soon enough.  I think I'll have to put this on the menu for next week.  Any suggestions for great beer?

Gettin' down on waffles at La Tazza

Now here's a combo I can get down with--waffles and free, live, funk music.  Eating waffles is a decadence that I indulge in only occasioally these days.  When my husband and I are lucky enough to have a leisurely Saturday morning to enjoy breakfast together I'll often whip up a batch of waffles topped with maple syrup and served with a side of bacon.  Yum! 

But here comes La Tazza with a whole new spin on the concept--literally.  They'll have live music with the Flavour and Theme Trio beginning at 9:00 pm (no cover).  And if the music doesn't make you want to dance, the menu will--they will be serving up sweet waffles like classic buttermilk, Belgian style, and even a vegan variety.  Savory options include waffles piled with Dinosaur Bar-B-Que pulled pork and waffles stuffed with goodies liked smoked gouda and herbs.  Egg sandwiches and paninis round out the menu.

And, according to Marty at the Co-op, they are looking to organic and local sources for many of their ingredients--can you dig it?

Funk 'n Waffles has its grand opening tomorrow.  They are still working on their website but keep checking here--they should have more info up soon.  They are located in the La Tazza cafe which is located off of South Crouse in the Campus Plaza--downstairs--behind the Marshall Square Mall.  Now tomorrow, I'm beginning a three-day juice cleanse and won't be able to get there but I'd love to hear a report.  Give them a try and let me know what you think.

Funk'n Waffles, 727 South Crouse Avenue, 315-477-9700, www.funknwaffles.com

Finding the Method to Snacking Madness

I didn't make a slew of New Year's resolutions last week but I am hoping to adopt more healthy eating habits.  While I think I have a generally balanced diet I know that I'm still prone to the mindless snacking that undermines it.  Pretzels and Oprah are a horrible combination for me as fun and satisfyiing as it seems as the time.

So when I read that Cornell University is seeking volunteers for a study on Mindless Eating and the Psychology of Snacking--I thought sign me up!  The study will take place the weekend of April 6-8 and includes free meals and an optional tour of the wine country.  And what do you have to do?  Simply brainstorm, and let them track things like how far you keep your snack bowl from your chair.  Is all in the name of science people! 

Read more about it and register here.  Thanks to the Post-Standard for the heads up.

Is anyone else worried about the weather?

Don't get me wrong--I'm loving this weather.  It feels like I'm back in Berkeley, CA without the traffic.  But it is so warm that some bulbs are coming up and geese are still flying overheard--I'm not sure they know where to go.  The one's I saw the other day as I drove east on the NY State Thruway were going south so I'm hoping they just got a late start.  Meanwhile, cattle are freezing in Colorado.

From a food standpoint, though, it is also confusing.  I'm feeling like salads and leafy greens and don't feel motivated to do anything with all that winter squash in my root cellar.  The seed catalogs are arriving and I'm itching to go and do garden work now.  I know that here in Central New York we will have winter until at least early April so I have no illusions that we are off the hook--not yet.  But I also know that food production in these parts does depend on a particular weather cycle that includes a fair bit of cold temps.  We can probably expect to hear of reports of food costs going up or down based the mild weather we've had. 

When the Northeast Organic Farming Association of NY meets at the end of this month I'll look forward to hearing how the farmers are making out.  The conference will be held in Liverpool and it isn't too late to register.  Click here for a registration form.  And though I say it with just a bit of nervousness--enjoy the 60 degree weather!