Cookin' in the 'Cuse

Heid's of Liverpool

Local Gems of Syracuse is a series of posts designed to highlight the unsung heroes of our culinary life.  Each of them, in their own way, elevates the food scene of the Syracuse area.

So first you have to understand that historic preservationists will do almost anything to find an interesting building.  What started out for Bob as an interesting Art Deco find quickly became hot dog manna.  And for years now, nearly every time he saw me Bob would ask, "Have you been to Heid's yet?"  Well today was the day.  I broke my decade-long hot dog fast and ate a German.

Ah yes, and I suppose you can see that there were onion rings involved too.  Forget fancy truffles and butter sauces, this tasted like the most decadent thing I've had in ages.  I could have gone the "fries with gravy, cheese, or chili" route but that would have taken me over the edge.  This beef hot dog was all delicious, comforting, nostalgia--kind of like the building.  Thanks to a natural casing grilled just right each bite contained that "snap" that I remember from childhood hot dogs of long ago. I can see why Bob loves this place.

And at Noon on a blustery day, it was evident that others loved it too.  They do a brisk business at Heid's.  Folks come in and order either the German (beef) hot dog or the Coney, a white dog that has veal and pork mixed in. Fries, a cookie perhaps, and a drink round out the straightforward menu.  Well, there are grilled cheese sandwiches, sausages and potato salad on the menu too but I don't suspect that they are the reason folks will get off the Thruway or begin to salivate when thinking of that "little hot dog place in Liverpool". 

Memorabilia such as old newspaper clippings dot this two-room dining car-like restaurant.  A 1936 edition of the Liverpool Review carries a front-page article (above the fold) about Heid's 50th Anniversary.  To be still going strong 71 years later is no small thing. 

Heid's grills up Hofman hotdogs and Coneys so I might even consider this place the original local, Syracuse-area fast food joint. My order took several minutes to get to me and came accompanied with all sorts of apologies for taking so long--I hardly noticed the time.  The service was friendly, the vibe is that "no fuss, no muss" authentic, unpretentious Central New York, and the hot dog was good enough to keep me coming back for more.  But I won't be indulging in such decadence too often...more on that tomorrow.  In the meantime, i have my memories--thanks Bob!

Archive Alert:  On this date in 2006 I was putting the garden to bed for another winter of rest.

Lombardi's--A Syracuse Gem

Local Gems of Syracuse is a series of posts designed to highlight the unsung heroes of our culinary life.  Each of them, in their own way, elevates the food scene of Syracuse.

Lombardi's is a veritable Syracuse institution.  When I first moved here I would hear about it all the time.  Co-op staff would stop in the aisles of the Co-op, thrust a piece of waxed paper holding something delicious toward me, saying "You gotta taste this!"  Inevitably I'd find myself chewing on some proscuitto salami, saying--"oh my God--where can I get this!?"  The answer was always Lombardi's.

Lombardi's Fruit and Produce on Butternut Avenue on Syracuse's North Side reminds me of the kind of Italian salumeria I grew up with in Brooklyn and Staten Island.  I remember the smells of well-aged cheeses, cured meats, and fruit--and walking into Lombardi's brings it all back.  I also remember the sounds of people ordering their "regular" and the man behind the counter knowing exactly what that was.  Like those places of my youth, Lombardi's is only partly about the food--it is about community.  It is where the local news is shared, where everyone feels like they are known and where the staff care to spend the time to help you choose from the dozens of vinegars, oils, pastas, cheeses, and salumi on offer.  In fact, they may have the most comprehensive olive oil and vinegar section in all of Syracuse.

I went in to browse around recently and decided to bring home some of that proscuitto salami and whatever else looked good.  To my surprise the man behind the counter was Vince Lombardi himself.  Lombardi's is a family business and Vince presides over the store as a doting father--knowledgeable about everything on the shelves, and invested in making sure customers (doesn't even seem right to use that word) find just what they're looking for.

Take proscuitto for example.  I've been eating proscuitto for a long time and all I ever knew was that Parma Proscuitto was the best.  But Vince says, "you gotta try this".  He sliced some San Daniele Proscuitto, it melted on my tongue and I said, "I'll take a 1/4 pound!"  As Vince explained how San Daniele Proscuitto is made from the finest pigs and is the very best there is, I thought--this is the value of a place like Lombardi's.  You just don't get this kind of expertise and time in most supermarkets.  When I asked about some good balsamic vinegar to go with it (not $100 good, but you know, good) Vince led me down the aisle and compared bottles and described tastes and helped me make the best purchase for my money.  I grabbed a package of some of their house-made pasta and was all set. 

The thing about writing about Lombardi's is, most folks who have been around Syracuse a bit know how great it is.  It has been written up in the Post-Standard over the years and generations have shopped there.  But it is exactly the kind of locally-owned business that is so fragile in today's marketplace.  It is uncertain whether the next generation of Lombardi's will take over and the competition is fierce for business.  But as many readers of this blog know, Lombardi's is the kind of authentic place that makes Syracuse great.  It is not as ritzy as a Balducci's or Zabar's (both in NYC) and it is not a one-stop shopping place like Wegman's but the food is fantastic and there's always a genuine smile on Vince's face when you come in the door.

Vinomania Wine Shop

Local Gems of Syracuse is a series of posts designed to highlight the unsung heroes of our culinary life.  Each of them, in their own way, elevates the food scene of Syracuse.

When it comes to buying wine it helps to have a friend in the wine business.  Here in Syracuse we have exactly that in Gary Decker and his shop, Vinomania.  This is the kind of place where you can come to browse and buy, browse and chat, learn, taste, and discover first hand the wonderful world of wine.

If you enter Vinomania in the late afternoon through the evening you are likely to find a handful of folks gathered near the front, talking and tasting wine.  You're also likely to find Gary Decker walking a customer around pointing out what's new and special--and always at a variety of price points.  Gary brings years of experience in the restaurant world to the table and a great love and passion for helping others enjoy wine. 

Vinomania carries a broad selection of wine--lots of organic wines, Finger Lakes Wines and bottles from just about every major wine growing region in the world.  It is a small shop when compared to some of the others around but it is intensively stocked--great selections, always new shipments, and Gary can pretty much get you anything that is not in the shop.

On a regular basis Vinomania hosts wine tastings on Saturday afternoons.  They vary by theme--organic wine was a recent one.  And these tastings are never just wine--these are opportunities to have some good food along with the wine.  Did I mention these are free?

If you have some cash to spend, though, check out the four-part wine tasting course that Vinomania will host in January.  For four Tuesdays, beginning January 10, 2006 you can learn about a variety of wines, tasting about 5 per session, eating great food, and learning it all from Gary, the "wine professor" himself--all for just $100. 

What I have come to love about this shop is the sense that as soon as you enter, you are among friends.  There are no dumb questions.  The advice is free flowing.  And if you time it right and Gary's wife is in a baking mood--you'll get a bit of something yummy to eat while you browse--she makes a mean sweet potatoe pie!

Vinomania is open Monday from 4 - 7pm, Tuesday through Saturday from 11 - 7pm and is closed on Sundays.  It is located in Nettleton Commons near the ramp to 81 North at the corner of Willow and Pearl.

Vinomania, 313 Willow Street, Syracuse, NY, 13203, 315-422-8466.

Fins and Tails Gourmet Seafood Store

Local Gems of Syracuse is a series of posts designed to highlight the unsung heroes of our culinary life.  Each of them, in their own way, elevates the food scene of Syracuse.

When I was growing up in Brooklyn each weekend my mother and I would buy our groceries for the week on Smith Street.  What is now an uber-chic restaurant row was, at the time--30 years ago--a street where one could find candy stores, a butcher, and a fish monger.  Though big-box supermarkets such as Wegman's have made shopping for seafood more convenient they have, in many cases, removed the knowledgeable fishmonger with access to the best seafood our oceans have to offer from our communities.

Lucky Syracuse.  Tom Farmer and Margaret Ringler of Fins and Tails provide fabulously fresh seafood, an array of locally-produced and hard to find gourmet foodstuffs, freshly made hot dishes and refrigerated prepared foods, and the expertise of people who know their fish.  Despite the fact that they are located on busy Erie Boulevard, Fins and Tails manages to feel like the neighborhood place--customers chat with each other, Tom remembers to ask about one customer's book project, no one is in a great hurry to leave.

Every time I visit Fins and Tails I come out with an unexpected treat.  This week it was fresh off the boat Nantucket Bay scallops.  These were as sweet as Tom promised they would be.  Sad to say, but I had never purchased or cooked scallops before.  But a fellow customer recommended a simple and quick preparation of scallops sauteed in butter and garlic.  I put them on top of some organic field greens from Tierra Farm and I had a meal on the table in minutes.  But though I resisted picking up a jar of the American Spoon lime kiwi salsa, I did grab one of Morning Glory's baguettes.  Morning Glory, based in neighboring Fayetteville, is another (recently discovered) gem of Syracuse that will be written up at a later date. 

In addition to the fresh seafood in stock, Fins and Tails has the ability to order just about anything that lives in water, from anywhere in the world.  Just ask Tom and he'll search it out and get it in.  The market price may be high but if there is something you really want he'll get it. 

Fins and Tails does a brisk business in catering too.  One look at their prepared foods case and its no surprise:  various seafood and pasta salads, crab cakes and salmon cakes, and heat and serve lobster quiche to name a few all vie for your palette.  I had the lobster quiche last month and it is out of this world.  If you can't wait to heat up your food, Margaret creates a changing menu of hot items to take out.

If you have to choose between a place like Fins and Tails and your neighborhood supermarket fish counter here's more food for thought:  you will be hard pressed to find a person who is as knowledgeable and passionate about seafood as Tom Farmer. 

Between ringing up other customers, Tom is more than happy to take the time to talk about things like the impact of Hurricane Katrina on the oyster market.  Even though he gets his oysters from Maryland, the damage in the Gulf means that pressure will be put on the oyster market nationally and drive the cost up.  He delights in explaining how fishing is similar to farming in that weather like the wind and the rain from last week will make it harder to get ground fish such as Haddock and Cod this week due to the difficult fishing conditions.  He obviously cares about the food he carries and enjoys sharing his knowledge.

Fins and Tails is a special place and is worth putting adding to your weekly shopping rounds--whether or not you are a seafood lover.  If you live near Syracuse University and can't make it to Fins and Tails, stop by the Syracuse Real Food Co-op.  As of this week they are carrying a limited selection of Fins and Tails' products including fresh seafood, shrimp salad, and that divinely decadent lobster quiche.

Fins and Tails Gourmet Seafood Store, 3012 Erie Boulevard East, Syracuse, NY 13224, 315-446-5417.
www.finsandtails.com

How cool is this? Co-op Blogging!

I have a mug in my cupboard that says:  Keep your EYE on CNY.  So true, so true.  I've just returned from a few days away (I just left Thursday) and the minute I leave, the Syracuse Real Food Co-op begins doing cheese tastings!  You gotta keep your eyes open around here because there are great things popping up all over.  If you missed it--and I'm sure there'll be more--you can see what you missed on their new, very cool, blog by clicking here. 

I've also added a link to the Co-op blog on my sidebar on "Blogs that make me go yum!"  What I would really love to do is to create a sidebar of "Central New York Food Blogs".  Please give me a reason!  Things are beginning to happen here in Syracuse.  Actually, much has been happening for quite awhile folks just haven't always known about it.  I'm betting that blogs and positive talk about Syracuse and Central New York will really change that.  A friend says, our city motto should be, "Why NOT Syracuse?"  We should expect great things here.  And we have great things here.  Spread the word, check out the gems of Syracuse, read the blogs, be positive.  Keep your eye on CNY!

Eating Local--The Journey Continues

Chicken Berries from Two Hearts Farm

At first I thought that after the Eat Local Challenge was over, despite my best efforts, my focus on eating locally would fade a bit into the background.  I guess I’m pleasantly surprised that this hasn’t happened.  But the provocation to continue thinking locally has come from a myriad of sources that tell me that this may not be as difficult as I had once thought.  Here’s my evidence.

Back in late August, on the last day of the Eat Local Challenge, I enjoyed a phenomenal meal at BC Restaurant .  Chef Bill Collins took three nights to highlight several small farms by cooking a five-course ingredient-driven dinner that one person said was better than the meal he had a few days before at Thomas Keller’s New York restaurant Per Se.  This would have been the one night that I ran out without my camera--a real shame because each course was a revelation to the eye as well as the palate.  We’re talking about an heirloom tomato salad with fourteen different kinds of tomaotes, a corn soup made with corn kernals, corn broth (from the boiled husks) and jalepeno pepper, and a blackberry ice with heirloom melons for dessert--not to mention the fish and meat courses.  For each of these dinners (and we hope there will be more like this for each season) Bill relied on small, local. organic farms in our area that were new to me like Tierra Farms. 

Between courses Chef Collins came out and spoke about the farms he used and the ingredients that went into each dish.  For those to whom eating seasonlly and locally was a new concept, it was a great primer.  This was simply one of the best meals I’ve ever had.  And because I’m such a groupie, I can’t resist saying how exciting it was to chat with Bill after dinner---he even kissed my hand!--about the exciting things that are happening in the culinary world here in Syracuse.  Now that I’ve gushed a bit, I also feel the need to make a disclaimer about my relationship with BC Restaurant.  I write about them alot because I really like and respect what they do.  They offer me no preferential treatment and neither do they ask for preferential treatment.  When there are more places like BC in Syracuse you better believe I’ll be blogging about them too. 

The Syracuse Real Food Co-op is working hard on an initiative to highlight local food producers in their store.  Currently there are yellow and orange signs to point out local products but they will soon be adding more markers and markers with more information.  This is great news for those who want to really be intentional about supporting local growers and producers.  Being able to easily identify local sources--and having a reliable, high quality place to buy them--is key.

There are gems all over Syracuse that offer, if not locally sourced foods--though many do--an experience of shopping a locally owned store with knowlegeable staff, high quality products and specialty items, and a commitment to safe-guarding some of the traditional foods and old foodways found in our community.  Over the next few weeks I will highlight these establishments under the tag, "Local Gems of Syracuse".  Though some of these places are well known, they are all are new to me and many others who don't often shop outside of their neighborhood or regular grocers.

If you're in the area and you know of a local food source or purveyor that the world should know about--let me know.